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Satan's Downclimb

V4-, Boulder,  Avg: 2.4 from 22 votes
FA: Dana Seaton/Stand Keith Nadeau/Sit
Massachusetts > Eastern, MA > Gilbert Hills SP > Twins > Big Twin

Description

Blunt prow beneath the downclimb tree. As a stand start, use a flying start to gain a lefthand side pull, move up and right to roll the classic granite mantle. The V8 sit start sits directly under the arete at the small shelf. 

Protection

None.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mike Robin on the topout of the arete.
[Hide Photo] Mike Robin on the topout of the arete.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Where does this start? Is it a sit? Feb 27, 2020
Joe M
MA and NH
[Hide Comment] Don't think it has been done from a sit, though there is a good starting hold. We did kind of a dynamic (cheat) stand start. Would be cool if someone could hook it up from the sit. Feb 27, 2020
Dana Seaton
Rhode Island
  V4-
[Hide Comment] "Flying start" use the high right hand sidepull and the shelf for one foot and hop off the ground with the other. Feb 27, 2020
Jamie Re
Providence, RI
[Hide Comment] Keith N. got the sit to this one! So cool! Oct 23, 2020
Neil Benson
Foxborough, MA
  V3
[Hide Comment] I don't understand the beta for this one. Everything I tried as a "flying start” with one foot on the ground and one on the big shelf seemed too easy for 4-. If you're even moderately tall, you can just grab the lip from that jump. Seemed easier for me than the start moves on Windmill.

I saw a prominent, high sidepull (and used it), but it's just to the right of the arete, so it would make sense to me to use it as a righthand sidepull, not left (or as a left gaston). Everything to the left of the arete that's below the lip looks like smooth rock. What am I missing? Dec 28, 2020
Dana Seaton
Rhode Island
  V4-
[Hide Comment] Maybe you're just stronger than you think? Grippy temps help on the topout for sure. Dec 28, 2020
Neil Benson
Foxborough, MA
  V3
[Hide Comment] Perhaps, Dana, I just found the start moves on Windmill to be harder and they share the same topout, so I figured I was doing one of them wrong. Either way all these problems are just pure fun, what a great boulder! Dec 28, 2020
Jonathan Gregg
Eastern MA
 
[Hide Comment] The downclimb tree broke. You can still get down by jumping off the finish jug for One Handed Arete or Off the Bench. Dec 12, 2021