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Routes in Johnson Mountain

Blockhead T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Force Boyle., The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Settlers Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Bill Ohran, Robbie Colber, Dan Snyder.
Page Views: 1,429 total, 14/month
Shared By: D Snyder on Aug 29, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

1st pitch is long with the crux just about half way.
Pitch 5 and 6 haven't been freed yet and more than likely the 6th will be the true crux pitch if it goes free.

Location

Check the new "Zion climbing - Free and Clean" guide book for more info.

Protection

Nuts: 1-2 sets (offsets useful)
Cams: 2 each .33-4" - 2 extra 1.5-3" - 1 each 4.5-6"
1 70m or 2 60m ropes.
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
Did this last week. A good route. My partner freed everything while following (we were three) He thought about 12 A. Mar 31, 2014
D Snyder
Virgin, Utah
 
D Snyder   Virgin, Utah
 
Zach, Bird told me about the rope getting stuck on that second rap. Wish I could have got that belay/rap anchor in further to the right but the rock was junk. Good beta for those looking to do the route. Dec 28, 2009
zachlee  
Just did this route on 11-18-09. We had fun. Clean rock good climbing. 1st pitch was more like mid 11 I'd say. Double set to 3 camalot 1#4 and 1#5 camalot with one extra #1 camalot would've been great. Be careful on the second rappel the crack angles and wants to eat your rope.Next time I would opt for 2 60m ropes intead of 1 70m. Nov 20, 2009