PRINT: Rock Climb As You Wish, Los Alamos & White Rock

As You Wish

5.9-, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2 from 35 votes
FA: Matthias Graf and Lee Steck
New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > White Rock > Gallows Edge > Main Wall

Description

This is a steep face route with some shark-mouthed pockets. The crux is moving beyond the 2nd bolt. Gain a ledge below the third bolt. A forth bolt protects the face to the left of the arete with friendly ledges to the anchors. There is an easier variation by climbing further left of the bolt line and a harder variation just right of the bolt line.

Location

This route is located directly to the right of the Unknown Crack Route or 10 feet right of Planet of the Apes. It starts on the upper talus table by scrambling up the blocks right of Planet of the Apes.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor with lowering biners.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hunter nearing the top of the route. Sept. 2009.

Matthias on the first go of the route. Aug. 2009.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Devin Shunk

5.9-

Fun route. I am not sure about the 10 rating. If you follow the bolt line, this is a straightforward climb. It is a stretch to even call it a 9 in my mind. As the description states, if you climb over to the right of the bolts (almost out of arms reach of them), the climbing is much harder. Sep 22, 2009

Andrew Ellis
Taos, NM

5.10a

Good, enjoyable route. It may be short and sweet, but I feel that the brief crux is a few solid 10a moves. Eases up after that. May 24, 2017

Laeserguns
Lost Almost, NM

DANGER!
Yesterday climbing this route it occurred to us that the anchor for the route is placed in a giant, down sloping and detached block. It appears that only one corner is holding it in place and it could just slide off its perch. I’d avoid this route. Apr 18, 2020

Aiden Ribble
Boulder, CO

To go along with what Laeserguns said - the route shouldn't be climbed in its current state, someones hung a sling with red tape on it to notify. Aug 2, 2020

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.8

Brett H. and I relocated the anchors earlier this week to a location up and left of the old anchors. This means climbers still can grab the edge of the large block where the old anchors were located but I feel the odds of that block letting loose from some slight groping are slim.
The old anchor wedge bolts had beat up threads and began spinning in the hole as we tried to remove the hangers. So they're still there (but without lowering hardware.) It'll take a return trip with a cutting tool to finish it up. Mar 25, 2021

Dave Janecek

Thank you Jason and Brett, it looks like someone also took out a dangerous looking chockstone that was in the offwidth just left of those new anchors. The new anchors are quite a bit easier to set a top rope from above and I feel like the route now has one more move in it to boot. Kudos. Mar 27, 2021