Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Justin Edl
Page Views: 18,142 total · 136/month
Shared By: JNE on Aug 28, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a very nice crack climb! It is a very right-arching, flared splitter on a lightly overhanging wall. Start out on a decent tight hand and climb into ever thinner jams as you move up the arch, encountering one bomber finger lock along the way. At the end of the arch, you will find a decent rest before some more hard moves to get established in the vertical upper crack. One or two more hard moves at the top of the vertical section lead to a thank god hand jam on the shelf above the climb. There is one section that is particularly brutal, but aside from the first few moves the climbing is difficult and sustained throughout. Also, hanging on to place gear is especially difficult in some spots. The rock, movement, and general aesthetics of this climb are absolutely top notch in my opinion.

Location

This is the obvious, right-arching crack on the left side of Coyote Rocks when viewed from the road while driving in.

Protection

I used two Z5s, one Z6, a #1 Friend and a #1.25 Friend (not in that order), though you may want to bring at least one Z4-sized piece or equivalent to fit your own preferences. I wouldnÂ’t bother with anything smaller or larger.

Photos