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Routes in Home on the Range Rock (temporary name)

Coyote Pretty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hey Jerk, Nice Car T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Home on the Range T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Twistor TR V10 7C+
Unknown 4 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 1 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Justin Edl
Page Views: 16,928 total, 168/month
Shared By: JNE on Aug 28, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a very nice crack climb! It is a very right-arching, flared splitter on a lightly overhanging wall. Start out on a decent tight hand and climb into ever thinner jams as you move up the arch, encountering one bomber finger lock along the way. At the end of the arch, you will find a decent rest before some more hard moves to get established in the vertical upper crack. One or two more hard moves at the top of the vertical section lead to a thank god hand jam on the shelf above the climb. There is one section that is particularly brutal, but aside from the first few moves the climbing is difficult and sustained throughout. Also, hanging on to place gear is especially difficult in some spots. The rock, movement, and general aesthetics of this climb are absolutely top notch in my opinion.

Location

This is the obvious, right-arching crack on the left side of Coyote Rocks when viewed from the road while driving in.

Protection

I used two Z5s, one Z6, a #1 Friend and a #1.25 Friend (not in that order), though you may want to bring at least one Z4-sized piece or equivalent to fit your own preferences. I wouldnÂ’t bother with anything smaller or larger.
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Geoff, the important thing is that several climbers were strutting around citing this route specifically and an apparent downgrade of it, and the negative implications this apparently had about my character due to the apparent fact that people like yourself had done it in significantly fewer attempts or with significantly less preparation. Given you have a much more expansive list of accomplished climbs in this grade range, your choice to attach your name to Vedauwoo which implies a great deal of experience and mastery of the place, and given you had significantly better circumstances in which to work it and yet failed to get up the route in significantly fewer tries, I found the comment a bit off. That is poor style on someone's part.

As for a subjective grade on this, I suppose we will have to agree to disagree, as the crux is tips and we have the same size tips. I found the flared hands/off fingers section (either technique worked for me at about the same grade on that part) to be easy enough to be, outside of the fact that it is climbing which is precedent to the crux, largely inconsequential to the grade of the climb. The grade comes from the tips, and from the unbalanced, leaned over, and butt-out position the climb forces one into while climbing through those tips. The "slab" below the climb only really serves to put your body in a shit place for using the crack in that it forces you into pulling straight out on the jams (so you can't sag below them) and has the effect of making whatever jam you need to reach to effectively further away than it otherwise would be (i.e each jam is in about the hardest to reach place it could be), and it does not extend below the crack enough to really stand on unless you undercling the crack, which would make the climb a lot harder. Combine that with movement repetition and you have a beautifully abstract and weird climb which I can understand is confusing to grade. There is no stopper move, and it looks deceptively easy because of the fact that the whole thing has decent jams and it looks like one could stand on the "slab" the whole way. Feb 21, 2017
Geoff Sluyter
  5.13c
Geoff Sluyter  
  5.13c
All respect to Justin for the FA of this crack! I found this crack to be hand size-dependent. I got a couple of decent flared hands where Peewee had bad off-fingers, so the grade is subjective. Feb 14, 2017
JNE
 
JNE  
 
It is worth mentioning that Geoff Sluyter took only a few fewer tries to send this route than I did, and he got the beta from both me as well as Peewee. He also had the luxury of getting to the route enough times in one season to get it done, so he never had to re-learn sequances for the season. In contrast, I did the FA by trying it once on lead and once on TR, once a week for a few months in a row each season for three seasons. I only say this, because I have heard around Ft. Collins recently that he put me in my place with his ascent of this route, and that this shows how I am an over-grading egomaniac who is out of touch with reality. Whoever said that, and I heard it more than once, needs to check their reference.... Jan 18, 2017
Third ascent. Sheesh. See above. Aug 3, 2011
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
blackdiamondequipment.com/e…

Nice writeup and great photos of the 2nd ascent of this one. Jul 27, 2011
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
Last week at Nautilus I met a roadtripping climber from Montreal (didn't catch his name). He was shorter than me (5'10") and said he had been working the route, calling the crux 5.13+. Jul 1, 2011
This thing looks hard, especially for shorter individuals. Jun 20, 2011
willeslinger
Golden, Colorado
willeslinger   Golden, Colorado
Punkencack. That is the funniest thing I've read in a long time. Bravo.

I'm heading to Vedauwoo for the first time in a couple weeks and just stumbled onto this "discussion", now, my $0.02 isn't worth very much. But, it seems to me as if one can't disparage the grade on a route without having climbed it oneself. So really, there are only a few people in the world who could ever have anything meaningful to add to this discussion.

And in the end, stop bitchin' and start climbin'. I've found it makes for a happier life. Jun 12, 2011
Justin . . . I hate to break this to you, but I did this crack back in 2001 with only three spoons and an old fork with broken tines as makeshift protection, using an old laundry line as a rope, wearing two left shoes, and without chalk or tape. I rated it 5.8+ because it felt a number grade easier than Lower Progressive. I also scrawled "Eat Me Whore" at the crux with a can of spray paint (like I do on all my FAs), so I'm surprised you didn't know it had already been done. Scarpelli belayed me, so he can verify all this. He'll remember it because it's the same day we stumbled on a couple kids from Colorado committing necrophilia on a deer carcass at the base of Legal Eagle . . . no, really, I'm serious. Jun 2, 2011
As a relatively new crack climber, I feel like even getting on something into the 5.10 range makes you more bad ass than probably 99 percent of the world, and at Vedauwoo where I have gotten on a 5.6 that was slightly overhanging for a few moves, 5.14 probably climbs like 5.15d in Boulder Canyon. Nov 3, 2010
To the people who are knockin Justin's beautiful new line. For the record, what's the hardest line in the Voo you've sent? All I can say is, if you lap Squat for fun, you have the right to comment on the rating of this climb. If not, go clip some bolts. Jul 11, 2010
This route is not as straightforward nor as easy as it looks from the ground. Even standing at the opening moves it looks 5.11 honestly. Initially there's a nice, tight-hands/off-fingers crack with a bit of a slab below it. So you think, what's the big deal, I'll just walk my feet along the slab. If you have a 4 year old child, this would be sick beta.

This route is a lot of fun and big props to Justin again for sending. I did not send it, so at the moment, I'll decline to rate it, but I will say it was more fun to climb on it than hate on it on this website. Hell, it was even more fun to climb it than put this post as well :) Jul 5, 2010
lenore sparks
Denver, Colorado
lenore sparks   Denver, Colorado
30 feet of climbing is plenty in Vedawoo. Plenty. Jun 21, 2010
JNE
 
JNE  
 
"Just for the record, what other 5.14, or for that matter 5.13 trad lines are you comparing this route to? I see you have bouldered V9, but have you even led 5.12+ in the Creek?

Seems like a joke to compare a trad line to a boulder problem, but then again isn't it only 30' tall?"

Awfulwidth: You can always tell a hater because they don't actually take you to task on what you have done. If you think the grade is in need of correction, go climb it and then submit your opinion. Jun 18, 2010
I didn't like the way the light hit it. Nov 27, 2009
bonbot
Laramie, WY
bonbot   Laramie, WY
So Handsome, I was just wondering what you thought of this overrated and self aggrandizing climb, more specifically? When you climbed it, what was it you didn't like? Did the movement not work for you or was the grade a little softer than you thought it should be? Since this is now the hardest trad line in Wyoming (so far) it would be awesome if you could give us some more insight into why you did/did not like it when you climbed it. Problems of this grade will draw people to the area and your feedback will help other climbers figure out whether or not this climb is worth the trip. Thanks! Nov 26, 2009
Looks like "Jammer" has added yet another overrated and self aggrandizing send to a long list of personal back slappers. Tell me "Jammer" what happened to "some guy" sending this one? And how does it compare to Andy Johnson's masterpiece "Bloodletting" at Reynolds? Congrats. Nov 25, 2009
Jesse Brown
Laramie,wy
Jesse Brown   Laramie,wy
It was a pleasure to be a slave to such a wonderful project, plus I got to boulder at Coyote and polish off the area classics! It was fun. I know you will find a new kick ass project soon to drag me out, too!
P.S your name selection for this route Rocks!!! Nov 4, 2009
JacobD
Flagstaff, AZ
JacobD   Flagstaff, AZ
Congrats, Justin! I've walked by that crack and pictures don't do it much justice. Sep 4, 2009
Proud send, Justin! It's got me psyched for this weekend up there! Sep 4, 2009
No idea what the property ownership is, nor do I have any hope of even trying this thing, looked way too hard. Just walked by it and thought "there's a 5.14 crack". Great job on your send! Sep 2, 2009
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Richard, I know which crack you are talking about. Do you happen to know if that is private property or part of Curt Gowdy?

Brian, again, thank you for your support on this. A Z4 is also my limit, though that is more psychological than anything. Both the Z4 and Z3 are 6kn, so they are equally good when placed well. Sep 1, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
A Z4 is the smallest piece I've ever placed as legitimate protection. I have the Z3, and I've only placed it once, and didn't climb above it.

I do recall that first day you got a rope on this thing and aided between moves. And especially when that piece blew on you unexpectedly. Because I was staring off into space when you fell and it took me quite by surprise. I also remember a few other trips when I thought you would send. Good work Justin! Sep 1, 2009
Speaking of crazy hard cracks, now that you have done this one: there is a steep splitter down by Curt Gowdy State Park, south side of Happy Jack highway, new piton driven in at the base - a nice traverse boulder problem nearby - do you know which line I am talking about?

Has anyone done this thing yet? Sep 1, 2009
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Thanks Pete and Wade. Not a stupid question at all, Wade. A Z# is what Wild Country uses to signify the sizes on their Zero camming units. Specifically, a Z4 would be roughly equivalent in size to a blue Alien. The stem design on the Zero's is brilliant in my opinion and on this particular route that design gave me a greater comfort of mind (check out C and D on that link, as well as the pictures at the bottom, to get a better idea). Sep 1, 2009
Wade  
Nice job! this might be a stupid question.... what's Z4? Aug 31, 2009
Congrats, Justin! Aug 31, 2009
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Thanks guys. Molony, in terms of cracks it might just be. Another contender would be Fiddler on the Roof with Steve Petro's beta. Though new beta has been uncovered for that one which makes it easier, in my opinion Steves solution has to be at least V12, though I can't really comment on that one in any meaningful way because I can't do it the way he did. Pretty sick for the eighties, and in Fires no less. Aug 30, 2009
molony  
Hardest in Wyoming? Aug 29, 2009
molony  
Well it's about damn time!
Yet again Mr. E proves to be ever the unsung badass.
Congratulations, Justin. Aug 29, 2009
Holy jeebus! Nice freakin' job, Justin. Aug 29, 2009
JNE
 
JNE  
 
The grade on this is nothing but a proposition, and it is meant to be honest when compared to other crack climbs around the U.S. Matt Segal checked out the line before I did the FA and he told me he felt that it was solid 14, so it might even be on the stiff side. I was going to call it 13+, but after hearing what Matt thought I decided to split the difference. Repeats will help settle the grade, up or down. For me, the one time I TR'd it, I felt like it was equivalent to a power endurance V11, and putting in the gear on lead adds quite a bit to the diffculty in my opinion.

I also want to extend a big public thanks to all the people who I goaded into belaying me on this thing on various occasions. Without your guys support I would not have been able to do this. These people are Jesse Brown, Rob Pheres, Jeremy Medley, Brian Scoggins, Tim Long, Jose Riofrio, Josh Helke, Bob Scarpelli, Julian Pouche, Patrick Kingsbury, Bjorn Kruse, Chris Veniegas and Vanessa Cassat (I hope that is everyone). I especially want to thank Jesse Brown and Rob Phares because more than anyone else they both had to be bored to tears from watching me fail on this. Each of them pushed up on the other end of my rope for a ridiculous number of attempts. Aug 29, 2009