Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Harvey Carter
Page Views: 7,273 total · 41/month
Shared By: Tim Stich on Aug 27, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

After scaling the lower slabs, head for the main dihedral in the center of the West side of the pinnacle. Note a crack with a bolted chain anchor over to your left at the level of the start of the dihedral. There is also another crack with some old bolt hangers on the slab higher up on the left as well. Keep to the main dihedral. The only fixed gear on the route are pins left from the FA.

The 5.9 finger crack is within the first 100 feet of the wall. Gear placements may end up making this section more difficult for the leader, but once removed it is much easier for the follower. Go up and to the right on a very narrow ramp with a crack in it, and end on a wide ledge below a roof. A wide crack is on the left. If taken, this crack will strand you on a sub-peak and make it necessary to rap off of. This way will keep the climbing under 5.9 however.

A harder 5.10c variation climbs up and around the small roof to just below the final summit pitch. This has yet to see a clean ascent from recent visitors, so the rating is speculative at best.

If you decide you would rather rappel to the ground here, keep rappelling from the wide crack rap anchor to a large tree further below. Wrap your rope around the tree or add slings and links. Pick more trees further down, as there are plenty to get you to where you can safely downclimb to the trail out. It takes about four full length 35 meter raps.

If you continue to the summit, climb up a wide crack far right with a keyhole that has a view to the other side, and then veer left up a short slab section to sneak past the boulders that make the summit ridge.

To descend the route, simply scramble North along the ridge line until it becomes obvious where you can move down and to the right (East). Some large, twisted trees are along the way. A small creek flows in this drainage and leads the way down to the hiking trail, but the water disappears underground at some point.

Location Suggest change

See the topo.

Protection Suggest change

A full set of cams with one set of nuts.

Photos

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