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Routes in Black Peak

Northeast Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
South Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Roger Jackson and Michael Kennedy 9/1/73
Page Views: 3,715 total · 34/month
Shared By: Eric Fjellanger on Aug 27, 2009 with updates from Nick Sweeney
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

This route is a quintessential Cascades ridge climb, featuring easy climbing, brilliant position and pulse-quickening exposure. Rock quality is "not good" at the bottom of the route, and improves noticeably to "mediocre" as you ascend.

The route is mostly fourth-class with some low-fifth steps. Good simulclimbing terrain.

Routefinding is generally easier than it appears. Climb the ridge, tending toward the left side more than the right.

Location

From camp near Wing Lake, climb easy snow to the low spot in the NE ridge (some scrambling depending on season).

Once on the summit, the descent is the south scramble route. Use one rap or downclimb to gain the flat benches immediately below. Move east and uphill briefly, then work south down complicated, chossy benches, toward the south col. There may be cairns to help you out. Descending from the col to Wing Lake is much more pleasant when snow-covered.

Protection

If you need protection, bring a light alpine rack and a rope.
Tom Bath
Kent, Wa
 
Tom Bath   Kent, Wa
 
The rock on the 1st half of the ridge is very loose. Definitely a helmet route. Nov 5, 2009
Joe Manning
Bellingham, WA
 
Joe Manning   Bellingham, WA
 
The rock on this route was much more solid than expected. There is definitely loose rock but with careful hold selection, it is not a big issue. With sticky approach or rock shoes, the climbing is fun and easy and it seems like a rope would get in the way. The exposure is significant, but tamed by the width of the ridge - even on the crest, it is often sidewalk width or wider. The low fifth class sections totaled maybe 30-40 feet. Lots of 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Route finding is generally straightforward. We made it to the notch without crampons or axe in late summer conditions. In fact, the loose rock and rubble on the sandy approach ledges were worse than anything encountered on the ridge proper. Definitely a fun route and one worth repeating. Jul 22, 2015
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  Easy 5th
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  Easy 5th
Decent adventure climb but I think that there are many objectives in the area with much better climbing and rock quality. That said, the views from this route were spectacular! Take heed of cornices at the base of the route - stay back from the edge when you reach the col! Jun 19, 2017

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