Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Roger Jackson and Michael Kennedy 9/1/73
Page Views: 5,909 total · 41/month
Shared By: Eric Fjellanger on Aug 27, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Description

This route is a quintessential Cascades ridge climb, featuring easy climbing, brilliant position and pulse-quickening exposure. Rock quality is "not good" at the bottom of the route, and improves noticeably to "mediocre" as you ascend.

The route is mostly fourth-class with some low-fifth steps. Good simulclimbing terrain.

Routefinding is generally easier than it appears. Climb the ridge, tending toward the left side more than the right.

Location

From camp near Wing Lake, climb easy snow to the low spot in the NE ridge (some scrambling depending on season).

Once on the summit, the descent is the south scramble route. Use one rap or downclimb to gain the flat benches immediately below. Move east and uphill briefly, then work south down complicated, chossy benches, toward the south col. There may be cairns to help you out. Descending from the col to Wing Lake is much more pleasant when snow-covered.

Protection

If you need protection, bring a light alpine rack and a rope.

Photos