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Routes in Black Peak
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Northeast Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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South Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, Grade II |
| FA: | Roger Jackson and Michael Kennedy 9/1/73 |
| Page Views: | 7,477 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Fjellanger on Aug 27, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
This route is a quintessential Cascades ridge climb, featuring easy climbing, brilliant position and pulse-quickening exposure. Rock quality is "not good" at the bottom of the route, and improves noticeably to "mediocre" as you ascend.
The route is mostly fourth-class with some low-fifth steps. Good simulclimbing terrain.
Routefinding is generally easier than it appears. Climb the ridge, tending toward the left side more than the right.
The route is mostly fourth-class with some low-fifth steps. Good simulclimbing terrain.
Routefinding is generally easier than it appears. Climb the ridge, tending toward the left side more than the right.
Location
From camp near Wing Lake, climb easy snow to the low spot in the NE ridge (some scrambling depending on season).
Once on the summit, the descent is the south scramble route. Use one rap or downclimb to gain the flat benches immediately below. Move east and uphill briefly, then work south down complicated, chossy benches, toward the south col. There may be cairns to help you out. Descending from the col to Wing Lake is much more pleasant when snow-covered.
Once on the summit, the descent is the south scramble route. Use one rap or downclimb to gain the flat benches immediately below. Move east and uphill briefly, then work south down complicated, chossy benches, toward the south col. There may be cairns to help you out. Descending from the col to Wing Lake is much more pleasant when snow-covered.
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