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Routes in Vagmarken Buttress Left

Podium of Indecision, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vagabonds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vagmarken Buttress T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Wind Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Bob and Yvonne Gaines, 1-96
Page Views: 1,853 total · 18/month
Shared By: Brandt Allen on Aug 27, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Another excellent Bob Gaines line, well worth the somewhat arduous (by Joshua Tree standards) approach and descent. Start about 20 ft. up and left of the gully immediately left of The Podium of Indecision. The route goes pretty much up the center of the face. Get a couple of good pieces in down low, then climb a short bit of run-out face on positive holds (fun 5.6ish). The rest of the route has very adequate gear, following cracks and plentiful face holds up through a short steeper crux section, and then easier climbing past a ledge and on to the top.

Descent: There is a bolted anchor for a new route north of the top of this climb. A single rope rap gets you to the bottom. From there, scramble and walk down to the west and then back around left toward the road.
Unless you're planning to do other routes nearby, I'd recommend going "Joshua Tree alpine style" by leaving packs and other gear at the base of the rocky hillside below the route so as to avoid the need to hike back to the start of the climb.

Location

Far left side of Vagmarken Buttress area.

Protection

Gear to 3 inches. While the pro is generally good, there is one short run-out section, and some placements are a bit tricky; maybe not a climb for a beginner 5.7 leader.

Photos

Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
that topside bolted rap anchor to climber's left has an upper rap chain that seems oddly too short. it could use another ft and a half of extension, ie, about another 8 chain links plus a connecting quicklink. presently it doesn't dangle down past the bulge to be level with the other lower rap ring but remains on the topside, making the rope go up and abrade around the top unnecessarily on the difficult pull Mar 8, 2015