Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Bob and Yvonne Gaines, 1-96
Page Views: 2,111 total · 17/month
Shared By: Brandt Allen on Aug 27, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Another excellent Bob Gaines line, well worth the somewhat arduous (by Joshua Tree standards) approach and descent. Start about 20 ft. up and left of the gully immediately left of The Podium of Indecision. The route goes pretty much up the center of the face. Get a couple of good pieces in down low, then climb a short bit of run-out face on positive holds (fun 5.6ish). The rest of the route has very adequate gear, following cracks and plentiful face holds up through a short steeper crux section, and then easier climbing past a ledge and on to the top.

Descent: There is a bolted anchor for a new route north of the top of this climb. A single rope rap gets you to the bottom. From there, scramble and walk down to the west and then back around left toward the road.
Unless you're planning to do other routes nearby, I'd recommend going "Joshua Tree alpine style" by leaving packs and other gear at the base of the rocky hillside below the route so as to avoid the need to hike back to the start of the climb.


Far left side of Vagmarken Buttress area.


Gear to 3 inches. While the pro is generally good, there is one short run-out section, and some placements are a bit tricky; maybe not a climb for a beginner 5.7 leader.