Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: M. Nad, J. Nad
Page Views: 28,224 total · 158/month
Shared By: GRK on Aug 27, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


18 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

On the ledge about about half way up Sticky Revelations is a right facing corner. The Book of Prophesy Variation is a good traditional pitch using all techniques of climbing. It ascends a crack that ends on a short steep face.

Climb any of the many south-side routes to gain the large ledge 70' up. From the ledge look north/left to locate the crack.
A little hard to get into, this route eventually eases up lie-backing through a solid and varnished corner using finger-locks, then jams. Follow the crack up and slightly right reaching the crux 30 feet up at a bulge. Continue past this bulge following a petering crack climbing the face on large edges to the belay.

Location Suggest change

Find gentle solid-rock platform at bottom of right side of cliff which is just right of 25-ft-tall detached pillar. About 70-80 ft up from that is a ledge with three bolts+chains+rings anchors. The middle one of those anchors is the top of pitch 1 of the route "Sticky Revelations".

The left-most of these anchors is under an obvious right-facing inside corner with a crack. This anchor is at the top of the one-pitch bolted route "Breaking the Sabbath". The route "Book of Prophesy" starts here and goes up that corner-with-crack. It finishes by the multi-bolt anchor at the top of pitch 2 of "Sticky Revelations".

Protection Suggest change

This crack takes mostly small to medium protection. A full, single rack up to 3", stoppers, slings and draws will work just fine.

Photos

loading