The Book of Prophesy Var.
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.9 from 18 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | M. Nad, J. Nad |
Page Views: | 28,224 total · 158/month |
Shared By: | GRK on Aug 27, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted.
Details
Continue down the road about another mile toward the double camelback formation near Gunlock. This is BLM owned land, and offers parking and dispersed camping where you won't be the guy to get the Prophesy closed to climbing.
Description
On the ledge about about half way up Sticky Revelations is a right facing corner. The Book of Prophesy Variation is a good traditional pitch using all techniques of climbing. It ascends a crack that ends on a short steep face.
Climb any of the many south-side routes to gain the large ledge 70' up. From the ledge look north/left to locate the crack.
A little hard to get into, this route eventually eases up lie-backing through a solid and varnished corner using finger-locks, then jams. Follow the crack up and slightly right reaching the crux 30 feet up at a bulge. Continue past this bulge following a petering crack climbing the face on large edges to the belay.
Climb any of the many south-side routes to gain the large ledge 70' up. From the ledge look north/left to locate the crack.
A little hard to get into, this route eventually eases up lie-backing through a solid and varnished corner using finger-locks, then jams. Follow the crack up and slightly right reaching the crux 30 feet up at a bulge. Continue past this bulge following a petering crack climbing the face on large edges to the belay.
Location
Find gentle solid-rock platform at bottom of right side of cliff which is just right of 25-ft-tall detached pillar. About 70-80 ft up from that is a ledge with three bolts+chains+rings anchors. The middle one of those anchors is the top of pitch 1 of the route "Sticky Revelations".
The left-most of these anchors is under an obvious right-facing inside corner with a crack. This anchor is at the top of the one-pitch bolted route "Breaking the Sabbath". The route "Book of Prophesy" starts here and goes up that corner-with-crack. It finishes by the multi-bolt anchor at the top of pitch 2 of "Sticky Revelations".
The left-most of these anchors is under an obvious right-facing inside corner with a crack. This anchor is at the top of the one-pitch bolted route "Breaking the Sabbath". The route "Book of Prophesy" starts here and goes up that corner-with-crack. It finishes by the multi-bolt anchor at the top of pitch 2 of "Sticky Revelations".
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