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Routes in Doug's Roof
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Blasting Hole Problem Left V1 5 |
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Blasting Hole Problem Right V2 5+ |
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Crack, The V0 4 |
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Dark Bulge, The V0 4 |
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Direct Bulge V6 7A |
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Gill's Double Clutch V4 6B |
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High Traverse V4 6B |
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Larsen's Leap V2 5+ |
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Left Bulge V2 5+ |
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Low Traverse V0 4 |
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Mental Block unknown V0 4 PG13 |
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Middle Traverse V1 5 |
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Unnamed DA 1 V0- 4- |
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Unnamed DA 2 V0 4 |
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Unnamed DA 3 V0 4 |
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Unnamed DA 4 V0 4 |
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Unnamed DA 5 V0 4 |
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Unnamed DA 6 V0 4 |
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Unnamed DA 7 V0 4 |
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| Type: | Boulder, 12 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 206 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Anthony Baraff on Aug 26, 2009 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
Start three feet to the right of The Crack and climb the face to the horizontal below the roof. There's a really good move or two in there if you don't cheat by using the cracks to your left and right.
Photos
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