Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sun-top Tower

Can't Can't T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
May Fly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moon Beam T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Sucker, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sun Top T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: DLFA
Page Views: 54 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Aug 26, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Hmmm....I've never climbed it, but I had a good picture!
Sven says: "Overhang/crack. Go up and right past overhang to ledge at 20ft."
A direct version starts the same but at the niche move left to overhanging flake, then up and right to ledge. Finish in upper May Fly crack. 11d.

Location

Start 10ft right of Sun-Top directly below upper small inside corner. Climb into niche.

Protection

DL Style

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Climbs better than it looks!

The technical crux is probably low, but the psycho crux is definitely the move back left! If Burt hadn't reassured me that the gear was going to get lots better, I probably would have bailed. After making the commitment I found 3 pieces.

Gear is mostly small, 1/8-1/2 inch, take doubles in that size range. I got a decent offset in the dihedral just off route before the final traverse. Oct 3, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I think it deserves a few stars atleast. Sep 12, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Lead this first time onsight yesterday and it's fantastic.... Its way steep but super positive with great gear in the upper section... good gear from the bottom through the overhang.... Gotta go back and suss the 5.11c/d direct.... I didn't see any obvious pro in the overhanging flake direct but it sure looks cool and there are jugs to shoot for mid route.... Sep 12, 2011