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Routes in Lower Baker Pond Ice Arena (Slander Crag)
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12 Below Situation T WI3+ M4 R |
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Alive and Kicking T WI5+ |
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Back of the Bus, The S M8 |
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ICBM WI5+ |
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Inadequa-seam S M9+ |
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Patty Gonzalez T M7+ |
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Pin Head S M6+ |
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Poached Eggs T M7+ |
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Pocket Rocket S M9+ |
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Pond Hockey S M7 |
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Various Ice Variations WI4-5 |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Alpine, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Bradley White , Jim Shimberg, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 2,092 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Aug 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Climb 20+ft of chandelier ice and move right. Climb hollow free standing very wide pillar after chimney behind it midway to place rock protection. Down climb chimney and ascend pillar. Move right via wide spread eagle legs to rock ledge then plant tools in snow crust to exit climb. WI5+ was as high as rating grade went. The exit is half dry tool with my right crampon on rock to pivot. This difficult extreme dynamic move was a make it or loose it finish.
It was easy to bang your knuckles on the chandelier section at the bottom and the new tools will make this climb less painful. Rarely in.
It was easy to bang your knuckles on the chandelier section at the bottom and the new tools will make this climb less painful. Rarely in.
Protection
I believe I used small tri-cams behind the hollow pillar. I don't remember what temporary protection was used. Didn't use piton. Ice screws are decent at the beginning and were futile on the hollow pillar above it's base. It will be a long fall if while exiting to the rock ledge you fail.
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