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Journey to Lost World

5.10b/c, Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.6 from 7 votes
FA: Jay Lena, Tom Bowker 1980's
New Hampshire > WM: Waterville… > Yellowjacket Area > Yellowjacket Crags > Slablands > 4- Bald Knob Cliff AK…

Description

Located on Bald Knob (southern end of the Acteon Range) in the col. on its southern end.
Find the 40' diagonal crack in a right facing wall. Steep and pumpy to 2 bolt belay. The 2nd pitch climbs up the slab past one bolt. Bold.
Rap w/2 ropes or descend a gully.

Protection

camalots .5 thru 3.0

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This thing is spectacular. Always an interesting bag of tricks needed for angling cracks.
[Hide Photo] This thing is spectacular. Always an interesting bag of tricks needed for angling cracks.
What an awesome crack - worth the hike alone!
[Hide Photo] What an awesome crack - worth the hike alone!
Sweet crack
[Hide Photo] Sweet crack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I just installed a new anchor on this amazing climb. The new set up should make for convenient cleaning of the 1st pitch whether you are having a follower clean or traming back to clean your own gear like a sport climb. Pitch 2 was a bold historic lead but between it's committing nature and some questionable rock quality I feel like the average party will stick to the 4 star 1st pitch. Nov 17, 2021
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I have been supporting Torie as she has been trying to redpoint this route. It was a different mental and physical challenge for her than anything she has done in the past. She just send it yesterday with great excitement. To round out the experience I followed to clean the route, we swapped leads and I led the run out second pitch. Though committing, it wasn't a complete sketch show. one tricky move off the anchor, don't pull out too hard on the amazingly hollow flake, Clip the lone bolt from a comfy stance before questing up the slab. The moves get easier the farther you get from the bolt. I thought 5.9 right near the bolt and by the time you are 40 feet from the bolt you are just walking to the anchor. Cool historic ground-up lead. Oct 13, 2022