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Routes in Chimney Rock - East Face

Blind Ambition T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flue, Right, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flue, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Raven's Reach T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Wolfe and Dick James, January 1969, FFA: Gib Lewis and Tobin Sorenson, 1975
Page Views: 632 total, 6/month
Shared By: Adam Kimmerly on Aug 24, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Climb the discontinuous crack system about 10' right of The Flue. Start up a few face moves to a right-slanting crack, then up a vertical flare. Climb through the crux bulge via the flare and face holds, then up easier terrain through discontinuous shallow cracks to finish at the bolt anchor atop The Flue.

Protection

Small to 2". Hybrid/offset cams may be helpful in places. Bolted rap anchor at the top.

Photos

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Taylor Mizusawa
California
  5.10b/c
Taylor Mizusawa   California
  5.10b/c
Mostly small active pro, offset cams would of been helpful after the hand crack, but an offset nut was able to suffice. The route has adequate protection and does not feel runout. Dec 2, 2014
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
 
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
 
The best route at the crag to top rope, imo May 6, 2014
The crux comes early on this one, and while the gear is pretty good there, the stances are pumpy. The piece that will protect the final moves of the crux is in a flare and is hard to see from the balancy stance you can reach it from. Above the gear is sparse but adequate. Fun climbing though, and a worthy TR if you're on The Flue. I felt it was stout for 10b though, and the R rating seemed appropriate. Aug 24, 2009