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Broken Arrows

5.12d, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 3.8 from 6 votes
FA: John Gogus
New Mexico > New Mexico, oth… > Sitting Bull Falls > Big Horn Wall

Description

Starts in the middle of the cave (last route on the left side) on obvious chalked slots. Make long moves through good slots and crimps to a good rest. Complete the difficult, technical boulder problem between V4-V5. The crux hold has apparently long since broken making the crux move just out of the rest either a right-handed (very temperature dependent two finger stack in a pocket) or do the move left-handed, grabbing the same hold as a pinch. Clip the chains after navigating through the final steep headwall grabbing nothing but big holds.

Significantly harder than any other route on the left side of the cave. The boulder problem is long, hard and technical. Harder for shorter people.

Protection

bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matthew NM sticking the last hard move before the second no hands rest and jug swimming to the anchors.
[Hide Photo] Matthew NM sticking the last hard move before the second no hands rest and jug swimming to the anchors.
Matthew NM moving into the second undercling as opposed to the broken pocket
[Hide Photo] Matthew NM moving into the second undercling as opposed to the broken pocket
Moving into the extended boulder problem crux
[Hide Photo] Moving into the extended boulder problem crux
Matthew NM powers through reaches at the start of Broken Arrow
[Hide Photo] Matthew NM powers through reaches at the start of Broken Arrow
Pretending to be tall at the start
[Hide Photo] Pretending to be tall at the start
Beginning the crux on Broken Arrows
[Hide Photo] Beginning the crux on Broken Arrows

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
 
[Hide Comment] Found better beta for the crux, hint: don't use the broken pocket...

The crux is longer though than the other 5.12+'s on the wall. Sep 7, 2010
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Lee's beta makes this route totally reasonable at the 12d grade, it made the crux feel a V grade or two easier, especially for shorter climbers. Feb 22, 2011