Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Clam Rock

Unnamed Center Route S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 50 total · 0/month
Shared By: tallmark515 on Aug 23, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Not really sure what the first 10 feet of this route are supposed to be rated. Supertopo says .10d but it feels like hard 5.11 and maybe harder.

Fortunately, the start of the route can be bypassed via climbing the tree and clipping the second bolt.

The climbing above is definitely 5.10 and also a little scary and can feel insecure in spots.

Location

Middle route.

Protection

3 bolts. 1 useless one 6' from the ground and another one above that hanging half way out of the rock. 3rd bolt looked... better.

If you're gonna get scared at the top, consider bringing some finger sized cams and explore the few opportunities for gear above the 3rd bolt to get to the top.

Photos

- No Photos -
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
Agreed on the bottom being stout .11+ maybe pushing .12? After a few tries, we opted for the tree start, which easily gets you onto pretty fun and awesome knob climbing all in the .10 range.

We also did the same thing for the climb on the arete to the left of this climb (stick clipped the high first bolt, aided through the essentially blank and improbable looking start) which led to very enjoyable .10 climbing... Sep 24, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
I've done the moves at the base. It's like a V5 boulder move. Kinda a dumb route IMO. The bolts seemed fine to me. Sep 30, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
I'm talking about the route on the arĂȘte. The start is like .12b. The one in the middle I've lead too but don't remember anything about the bolt condition. They're all pretty unmemorable. Oct 7, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
You frequent the area? I don't get to Phantom much because I don't care for the climbing there, but if you want to replace the hardware I'll give you the bolts and anchors to do it. But I think a lot of the bolts are 3/8 or 5/16 buttonheads and those can be a real bitch to remove and replace.

If motivated by belays and beer I might be talked into helping out ;) Oct 9, 2013

More About Unnamed Center Route

Printer-Friendly