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Routes in Lone Star

Lone Star (submitted as Stinkbug) V10-11 8A
Type: Boulder, Alpine
FA: Tommy Caldwell
Page Views: 950 total · 9/month
Shared By: tcamillieri on Aug 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Fragile Alpine Area Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

There are two independent cruxes for this problem. The first is the first two moves involving a long tension-filled right hand slap and a hard match (try keeping your feet on). The second involves going to a slopy hold and then a better albeit higher crimp, a committing heel hook helps.

Location

Upon finding the ridge-line of talus from the Glacier Gorge parking, like hike downhill until the talus begins to become more scattered. If approaching from this direction, Lone Star aka Stinkbug will be slightly on your left, and the problems will be hidden on the opposed face.

Protection

2 pads and a spotter for the heel hook crux.

Photos

Cesar Valencia
  V10-
Cesar Valencia  
  V10-
SUCH A CLASSIC! Lone Star aka Stink Bug, V10 is amazing. Here is a little beta video:

youtube.com/watch?v=LHK7v54… Nov 18, 2017
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
If Tommy did the FA and named this Lone Star, then why was the name changed and why is the name change upheld here? Jun 12, 2016