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Magic Carpet Ride

5.13c, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 12 votes
FA: Jonathan Siegrist, 2009
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > CO Hwy 7 & Trib… > Crags > Lower Great Face > C. Wizard's Gate
Warning Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a stunning line. To reach the Magic Carpet Ride, float a little ways up a 5.7 slab and clip the first bolt. Turn a corner and continue on steepening ground (5.11) until you reach vertical and your final, somewhat restful position. From here, a very cryptic and powerful move sequence begins and does not let up (not even really to clip) until you exit the incredible Magic Carpet panel. Some exotic and uncharacteristic granite grips bless this powerful climb. Finish on the same chain anchors as 'Cloak and Dagger'.

Location

This is on the left side of the steep alcove. The route begins on a slab with a high first bolt.

Protection

9 bolts and chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Steep and proud.
[Hide Photo] Steep and proud.
Paige Claassen taking the Magic Carpet Ride.
[Hide Photo] Paige Claassen taking the Magic Carpet Ride.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

RoMo Fo
Lafayette
[Hide Comment] Right On! Sep 8, 2009
Matt Lawry
Louisville, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The 'direct' line following the bolts above the long green sling might very well clock in around 13+ (exactly where Paige Claassen is in the photo), but the path of least resistance is to traverse 4 ft right, climb up the crack for a few moves, then bust left back in to the business. From what I've seen up there, looks like this is the path most people take these days? Breaking down the route, it felt like 5.11- climbing to a good rest, then a V8 boulder problem. Mid 5.13 this way? Regardless, the route is spectacular! Aug 13, 2018
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
  5.13b/c
[Hide Comment] You're totally right, MattL, the OG sequence is still there for those interested - and definitely adds another crux - but the new method makes things easier and simpler, plus I think it skips a scary clip. Probably 13d vs 13b/c like you said. Either way, so stoked people are enjoying this thing! Aug 13, 2018
Matt Lawry
Louisville, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Kudos to you JStar - these routes are some of the best in the Front Range! Aug 13, 2018
Mason Caiby
RVA
 
[Hide Comment] I climbed it in from the right, with the toehooks, etc. and think it feels pretty a/b that way. Though, if you're much shorter than me (5'8"), it might feel harder? Pretty cool moves though, this might be the first time I've successfully used a toe hook in my life. Sep 9, 2019