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Routes in Upper 5.8 Wall

Another Friend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Up the Phone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,003 total, 10/month
Shared By: wasatch-mtn-man on Aug 23, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

The route follows a system of cracks to the climber's left of the arete. Belay for 2nd pitch towards upper-middle of ascent.

Second pitch is short, with lower section covered in lichen.

NOTE: This two-pitch variation is different than what is listed elsewhere with regards to the belay stations. We used a 60 m rope to essentially span the two pitches listed in the popular Ogden guide book and then went all the way to the top. (see pictures below)

Location

Descent is via walk-off down gully to south, then ledge traverse to the starting point.

One can get a nice view of this climb from the top of Utah Crack on Utah Wall which is one gully to the east.

Protection

Standard trad rack with some bigger cams.
Jake Nelson  
 
Watch for a few torso sized loose blocks just after the first belay from the guide book (half way up the first pitch according to the topo here), avoid them at all cost as they'll likely kill your belayer, anyone climbing on lower 5.8 wall, and/or passersby on Ogden Canyon road.

Also, if you're willing to drag an extra #4 up with you there is a fun off width splitter (5.7 40') on the walk off protectable with the same rack. Jun 27, 2017
Taylor Gemperline  
  5.7
Here is a video of this route. I have no connection to those in the video or know anything about them, but I recognized the route and put it here for anyone interested.

youtube.com/watch?v=agOhgZe… Apr 13, 2017
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
 
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
 
Very lichen covered. But that just means no one climbs it! I enjoyed it. Definitely get your adventure climbing face on before you climb this. Jul 24, 2013
Am I the only one that likes this climb? Sure it has some lichen on it but for a moderate trad route in Ogden it's pretty darn fun. Probably time to replace the slings on top. Sep 3, 2010
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
 
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
 
This was my first trad climb. I followed both pitches. Matt carried all the gear. This is the life! Oct 13, 2009
Today we scrambled over to Utah Wall and rappelled off. More fun than scrambling down. Very scenic, fun route! Can use some big cams if you want. I used a Camalot #6 just for fun. Didn't use any smaller nuts. Oct 8, 2009
flyk
 
flyk  
 
Fun climb, needs some traffic on it to clean it up. A single #4 would make the wide crack on the first pitch comfy but the climbing isn't too hard. Sep 28, 2009