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Routes in Guano Wall

Delirium Tremens T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Guano Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Rotert & Les Ellison - 1983
Page Views: 147 total, 1/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Aug 22, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Begin by climbing the first roof to a right facing corner. Ascend this to a belay at 2 bolts (5.10).

Pitch 2 traverses left to an overhanging section...the crux. Cams protect you here. Above the roofs, climb the 5.9 face to the top.

This is a forgotten classic.

Location

Begin 20' right of Guano Roof

Protection

Standard Trad rack.

Photos

Daniel Winder
  5.11- R
Daniel Winder  
  5.11- R
This is a fairly serious route, IMO. The crux of the first roof protects reasonably well but then it's a runout to get established in the right facing corner with a splat slab lurking below (perhaps this section used to have a pin or I missed something). The start of the upper crux is protected by a knifeblade of unknown vintage. Climbing the route as a single pitch seems best if rope drag can be managed. The top anchor would require more creativity or cams than I had so I traversed left to Guano Roof anchors. I started the route by traversing in from the left, but my friends toproped the direct start at poorly protectable 5.10. A good rack would be doubles from microcams to fingers and singles to 3. You can lower off with a 70. Great route! Jun 2, 2017