Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Tom Cecil & Jerod
Page Views: 3,112 total · 27/month
Shared By: Tom Cecil on Aug 21, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


26 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Mixed route right of Prune. Start at the obvious small right facing flake/corner 10' right of Prune. Climb straight up to to the ledge, the first bolt is rather high but the holds are good. Since the West face of the South Peak has relatively few bolted routes near the ground, I didn't want to put the first bolt to close to the ground. This route was done on-site and bolted from hooks when stances were unavailable. In the middle of the route you may want to place a 1-1.5 inch piece.

Location

South Peak West face. about ten feet right of 'The Prune'

Protection

6 bolts and an optional 1-1.5" piece about 40' up.

Photos

J tot
Tempe, AZ
  5.7
J tot   Tempe, AZ
  5.7
...I seem to remember seeing an old guide book that had this route listed as "Seneca Days". At that time a "X" rated trad route. But I could just be confused. Jul 5, 2010
J tot
Tempe, AZ
  5.7
J tot   Tempe, AZ
  5.7
Also, I used this route to pass a much slower team of three who had just started Prune. It makes a quick start to the 2nd and best pitch of Prune. Jul 5, 2010
Adam Marcus
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7 PG13
Adam Marcus   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7 PG13
I've always heard this route referred to as Seneca Daze/Seneca Days or Acksaw. The crux seems to be the mental game of getting to the first bolt.

One of the "bolts" is a rusty old pin and ring that might not take a lead fall. There's a pair of nice bolt anchors with rap rings at the top.

If you get gripped while climbing, move 1-3 feet to the right where there are lots of corners with good horizontal ledges, but then it wouldn't be a 5.7 and you may not be able to reach the next bolt.

The start is between Prune and Le Gourmet, where the trail is right up against the wall. Oct 20, 2014
airingout
Philadelphia, PA
  5.10a PG13
airingout   Philadelphia, PA
  5.10a PG13
The first bolt is way high but you can place gear in the first bit behind the flake. I wouldn't recommend making this a sport leaders first trad lead. I was terrified but I pushed and finished.

When was this put up? May 25, 2015