The Balless Boltchoppers
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 26 votes
Routes in South Peak - West Face
A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Balless Boltchoppers, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Banana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Breakneck Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Burn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Burning Tendons T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Crispy Critter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 | |
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 | |
Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c | |
Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Gunsight to South Peak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Mongoose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c | |
Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c | |
Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13 | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Prune T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Roof Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 | |
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Scrambled Leggs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R | |
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a | |
Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Type: | Sport, 75 ft |
FA: | Tom Cecil & Jerod |
Page Views: | 3,112 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Tom Cecil on Aug 21, 2009 |
Admins: | Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones |
Description
Mixed route right of Prune. Start at the obvious small right facing flake/corner 10' right of Prune. Climb straight up to to the ledge, the first bolt is rather high but the holds are good. Since the West face of the South Peak has relatively few bolted routes near the ground, I didn't want to put the first bolt to close to the ground. This route was done on-site and bolted from hooks when stances were unavailable. In the middle of the route you may want to place a 1-1.5 inch piece.
Tempe, AZ
Tempe, AZ
Salt Lake City, UT
One of the "bolts" is a rusty old pin and ring that might not take a lead fall. There's a pair of nice bolt anchors with rap rings at the top.
If you get gripped while climbing, move 1-3 feet to the right where there are lots of corners with good horizontal ledges, but then it wouldn't be a 5.7 and you may not be able to reach the next bolt.
The start is between Prune and Le Gourmet, where the trail is right up against the wall. Oct 20, 2014
Philadelphia, PA
When was this put up? May 25, 2015