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Waverly Waster
5.12a R,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3.6 from 20
votes
FA: Bruce Burgess, Andy Kluge
N Carolina
> 1. Southern Mou…
> Looking Glass Rock
> N Side
Description
This is a fantastic face route climbing a clean white face on perfect rock with athletic moves. It follows the natural features, so tends to wander a bit. There is a tough spot in the first two bolts then a good shake where you can place a small tcu before a deceiving move left. Get a real good shake at a circlehead (can place a yellow TCU here as well), then bust straight right campusing on half-pad crimps. The crux may be clipping the last bolt...maybe you should skip it??
Location
On the North Face of Looking Glass. This is the next route left of the Menagerie, or the second route on the left after you come up the trail. Look for a line of bolts.
Protection
Mostly bolts, but you'll need a handful of TCU's to fill in the blanks. There are a number of spots before the first bolt where decking is a real possibility, and a ledge fall is possible between the 1st and 2nd bolts.
[Hide Photo] Moving into the crux crimpers.
[Hide Photo] Me working through the side pulls lower down, the fall here can be bad with the ledge below.
[Hide Photo] Linking the bolted section of Waverly Waster into Creatures of Waste. Five Star 5.11 Linkup. Photo: Daniel Johnson.
[Hide Photo] Phil Hoffmann on route. Photo by Adam Johnson.
Golden, CO
Brevard,NC
To reduce the "R" factor some, a bomber blue Metolius TCU goes in the horizontal smack dab in the middle of the face about 15' from the ground. The TCU or Red C3 is crucial due to the shape of the crack round it. Apr 9, 2011
Clemson, S.C.
Louisville, KY