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Routes in Dork Dot Rock

Dionysius Thrax S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Admission S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Must Be This Tall S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Tristan Higbee
Page Views: 62 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Aug 17, 2009 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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9 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the short but beautiful overhanging face just west of Dork Dot Rock. Climb up and right on easy stuff to clip the first bolt and then cut left to the second bolt on horizontal edges. Grab the big jugs and then grab one of the coolest holds ever, a large quartzite tooth sticking horizontally out of the wall. Make some more moves on positive, incut edges. The crux is at the last bolt. You need to do a reachy move with bad feet.

This route is fun because it feels really exposed, since you start on a ledge that's pretty high up.

You can top rope this route; it's a little sketchy to set up but very doable.

Location

The obvious sheer face west of Dork Dot Rock. To get there, hike to the very base of Dork Dot and then do some class 3 scrambling over to the base of this route. The little belay spot isn't very comfortable, so climb fast!

You can see the face that the route climbs in this picture of Perin's. It's the dark, shaded, steep wall just left of the yellow circle. It is directly between and underneath the "o" and the "t" in "Dot."

Protection

4 bolts to chains (and one belay bolt with a quicklink on it)

Photos

Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.10a
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.10a
And with the rating, like Tristan said it could be anywhere between 9+ and 10a. The holds are there and easy to find, but the crux is a little tricky and the whole thing is overhung. Aug 18, 2009
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.10a
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.10a
This route reminded me less of butter face and little more of an easier Battleship, from Tinker Toys, in that has really positive holds but is overhung the whole way up. The holds are really great jugs and crimps all the way up until they get a little less straight forward with harder feet at the last bolt. I thought this climb was a blast, and the tooth that sticks out really is a unique feature that makes the climb more interesting.

Also, there are two ways to get to the base of the climb. We recommend going from the base of dork dot rock, not going straight up the class 4 stuff that leads directly to the base. The belay spot isn't so great, but with a little ingenuity, you can make it work just fine. Aug 18, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I'm not quite sure on the rating of this route. It might be 5.9+. The moves in a couple places are strenuous but the climbing is pretty straightforward. The route reminded me of Butterface, but a bit taller, steeper, and with more positive incut holds. Ok so I guess it only reminds me of Butterface because they're both short little chunks of quartzite...

The route is named after an ancient Greek grammarian. He is noteworthy for having probably the coolest name ever. Aug 17, 2009