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Routes in 8 - Sun Wall Area

First Crux T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sun Wall Left T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sun Wall Middle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sun Wall Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jay Smith and ?, 1980s
Page Views: 835 total · 8/month
Shared By: Aerili on Aug 17, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A full value 100' of varying offwidth skills: the first half is mostly chimney and squeeze chimney climbing, while the second half offers a few jams with stem moves inside the chimney, transitioning into either airy face climbing/span moves just outside the wide, perfectly parallel slot finish...or body-gastoning/squeeze chimneying inside.

Location

As the name implies, right-most route on Sun Wall. A yawning wide chimney marks the start.

Protection

Large variety of pro required. Depending on your comfort with chimneys, a #4-5 might be wanted...or might prove totally unnecessary for you. The final 15' appear to be protectable only with Big Bros or Valley Giants; however, fairly secure squeeze chimneying can be executed with no pro. Rap anchors at top. Can be toproped by scrambling up 4th/5th class to the west of Sun Wall and moving over to the fixed anchors at the top.

Photos

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Three out of four stars fer sur, clean and even polished in spots, classic chimney work. Milt May 14, 2010
It good... yum-yum Dec 21, 2009
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
My nickname for this route is 'Scary Airy.' :) Aug 17, 2009