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Routes in East Buttress

Neda S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Speed of Light S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sun Dogs T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: RMWright, Mark Tarrant, August 2009 FFA Mark Tarrant
Page Views: 247 total · 2/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 17, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Sun Dogs begins by scrambling over the large block at the base and just right of the dihedral. Clip a travers bolt from the block, step out right to pick up 20 or so feet of exposure, clip and second bolt and then back clean the first. This will protect the traverse and prevent massive rope drag. Fire up throught the crack above, which is protected by camming units, to gain a tricky slab. Sun Dogs shares the upper 50 feet with Speed of Light. Overall climbing is a tad more difficult than SOL with tricky sections in the slab and again just below the anchors on the final headwall. Climbing is fun, well protected, and largely on excellent rock.

Mark picked off the first red point.

Location

Second route right of Neda, marking a bee line to the top. Sun Dogs shares the top anchor with SOL.

Protection

15 draws, a couple of mid to thin camming units, and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. We used the yellow Camalot and the green Link Cam (0.75). This route requires (sic) either a 70 meter rope or double ropes to descend via a single rap. A 60 meter rope will not reach ground in a single rap!!! Alternatively, one can rap to the anchor on Neda and do it in two steps.

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