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Routes in East Buttress

Neda S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Speed of Light S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sun Dogs T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: RMWright, Pat Burwick, August 2009
Page Views: 131 total · 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 17, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Speed of Light begins in the obvious dihedral on the left side and fires up on largely moderate terrain. The crux comes in solving the final headwall just below the rap anchors. Climbing is on largely excellent rock, fun, and not particularly pumpy. Save some gas for the finishing moves since the solution to the final headwall is not obvious from the first go. The climbing on SOL was varied, interesting, and pretty well stitched up.

Location

This is the first route right of Neda and running to the top of the crag. SOL is on the left side of the West Face of the East Buttress, the large crag above The Lair.

Protection

15 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. This route requires (sic) either a 70 meter rope or double ropes to descend via a single rap. A 60 meter rope will not reach ground in a single rap!!! Alternatively, one can rap to the anchor on Neda and do it in two steps.

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Harald Harb
Dumont
  5.11a
Harald Harb   Dumont
  5.11a
Just great climbing and rock. No one comes up here. If you up for adventure, this whole area, RA and Halidome, is a tribute to Richard Wright, a lost friend, great climber, and prolific route developer. Jun 10, 2017

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