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Routes in Redrum

Heeere's Johnny T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rager's Edge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Redrum S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Kurilich, Mark Sargent, Phil Baldwin July 2009
Page Views: 1,414 total, 14/month
Shared By: Mark Sgt on Aug 16, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A mix of Dylan Thomas and Somerset Maugham.

Start about 5 meters up from the start of Grrr-Amp just below a steep arête/overhanging corner. Clamber up 15 ft to a flat ledge and reach high (or stickclip) 1st bolt. Gym like moves to big holds beyond the lower crux. From the large ledge after the crux enjoy the fun climbing to the top following the arête going left and right, clipping bolts in the 5.9 range. Finish at the same anchor for Grrr-Amp. 11 bolts total. 30 meters

Location

Start about 5 meters up from the start of Grrr-Amp just below a steep arête/overhanging corner.

Protection

draws

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Scott H.
Sandy, UT
  5.10d
Scott H.   Sandy, UT
  5.10d
I agree with MaryEllenMan, a stick clip could be useful for the second bolt. There is a runout further up the route, a longer sling could be used to clip one of the bolts from GrrAmp(left of this route) if you are concerned about protecting that part of the climb. Sep 6, 2013
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.10d
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.10d
Wow this climb was exciting and fun the opening moves were a lot harder than 5.10b considering climbs on challange buttress and The glass ocean walls it was easily 5.11a but since the opening moves were the only hard moves on the climb I would call it 5.10d. If you fall making the moves to the second bolt you can break your legs or ankles on the ledge you start on. The third bolt is missing you can posibly place a .5 camelot, but the run out is easy enough climbing. Sep 12, 2011
BScallout  
 
Bouldery start with ledge fall potenial until you reach the 3rd bolt. Weird run out (around bolt 4) to a good stance, then you can clip 2 bolts,from the same stance. Strange. Also this should be listed on the Redrum Wall seeing how Redrum is 15 feet to the right. Aug 4, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10b
Worth doing, Eases back after the initial sequence Jul 2, 2011
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
Nice rock, fun start, but eases way back. Nonetheless, would repeat. Jun 20, 2011
Texaswall
The Woodlands, TX
Texaswall   The Woodlands, TX
This and the rest of Geezer Wall are well protected and an enjoyable option for "average" climbers, especially on summer mornings. Note that one can rather easily access the Redrum anchors from the this climb. In fact, it's tempting to swing out and share a hold or two with Redrum around the 7th or 8th bolt, but staying left of the arete definitely provides the path of least resistance and insures that the crux remains the opening moves. Aug 26, 2009