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Routes in Climber's Choice Wall

Flat Line T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Grrr-Amp T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Midlife Cracksis S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phatt Ass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wrinkle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Phil Baldwin, Mark Sargent June 2009
Page Views: 225 total · 2/month
Shared By: Mark Sgt on Aug 16, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

There are several starts to this particular climb all about the same grade. 1) Either start up the short crack at the small pine tree to the first tan bolt or 2) 10 feet upslope from the crack traverse over left to the same first tan bolt. Regardless of the start you now climb up, possibly placing a small/medium C4 before reaching a second tan bolt, traverse right then up the face close the right edge clipping 6 bolts along the way. At the last bolt go straight up for the spice or escape out right to the casualness. Clamber up a vegetated shelve to the anchor. 8 bolts total. 20 meters

Protection

Draws and maybe a small/medium C4.

Photos

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Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8
Wonderful if short. Can't imagine why any bolts would be needed - tons of great gear. Easier than it looks. Jul 2, 2011
STH
STH  
Climbed this the other day too to see what all the hub-bub was about. Sorry to say, but I now understand why the bolts were removed and I completely agree with their removal. I'm surprised two climbers who are relatively well respected around here would bolt a completely protectable crack, even naming it "Midlife Cracksis" and then hide behind the excuse that "we did it for the beginners!"

Too bad this thing is becoming more common around here, oh and shame on people who place 8 bolts in barely 60 feet of completely protectable crack, in a wilderness area, with a powerdrill, and then openly complain about it to the Forest Service. (I was there and was actually a bit embarrassed by you)

Oct 16, 2009
mikewhite
  3rd PG13
mikewhite  
  3rd PG13
Good route.
All you need is a standard rack up to #2 camalot. Small cams and nuts most of the way. Micro nuts are handy on this one.
The bolts are still missing but the crack is easily protected.

Decent- down climb from top of first pitch or leave a sling behind. Oct 16, 2009