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Routes in Climber's Choice Wall

Flat Line T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Grrr-Amp T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Midlife Cracksis S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phatt Ass T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wrinkle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mark Sargent, Mike Kurilich, Phil Baldwin July 2009
Page Views: 1,162 total, 11/month
Shared By: Mark Sgt on Aug 16, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

5.8/5.9 Start is just right of the large right facing corner. Ascend the crack rising in an upward right traverse, using funky cross-thru lieback moves clipping 7 grey bolts. Pretty cool and unique climbing. More experienced climbers may be able to miss out on some bolts by making semi-blind pro placements at their feet as they layback; just realize the crack flairs in places and the traversing nature of the lower crack combined with the ground upsloping has you at groundfall potential longer than other cracks of this length. However you do it - it’s a climbers choice. Continue up thru the left side of a crack/break placing either a medium stopper or tech friend and then up left for 5 more bolts to anchor. 12 bolts total. 20 meters

Protection

Depending how you approach the lead. Either clip bolts and maybe one medium stopper placement or more experienced leaders could place small/medium cams and small wires. More experienced climbers may be able to miss out on some bolts by making semi-blind pro placements at their feet as they layback; just realize the crack flairs in places and the traversing nature of the lower crack combined with the ground upsloping has you at groundfall potential longer than other cracks of this length. However you do it - it’s a climbers choice.

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Paul Wilhelmsen
sandy, ut
Paul Wilhelmsen   sandy, ut
All the bolts have been chopped on this route except 1 bolt and the anchors.
I did it yesterday on gear. Super fun, one of the more enjoyable crack climbs I've done in bcc.
Fwiw I thought it felt like a solid 5.9 leading it on gear, but I'll be the first to admit that I'm by no means the best determiner of grade.

Does anyone know if it was the FA that chopped all those bolts? Aug 26, 2016
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
This was worthwhile, though I see we did it a bit different than you guys. We used this as a direct line up to what you're calling Wrinkle, which makes for a longer pitch and a line to the top. The note re ground-fall potential is correct, as the right-leaning crack somewhat follows the rising base. Jun 20, 2011