Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Slab

Crossing Over S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Years S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lifeline T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Dentures S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pete's Paradise S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Louise S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Dentures S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Geezer Gulley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Whipper Snapper S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Mark & Louise Sargent June 2009
Page Views: 2,696 total, 27/month
Shared By: Mark Sgt on Aug 16, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

40 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Who will be the first to cross over the edge?

Start is 8 feet upslope from the white quartzite belay table as Lifeline. Warning: this climb has great potential for rope drag. A perfect route for double ropes or use single length slings on the lower half of the route. Lifeline comes close to Crossing Over about 50 feet up, don’t continue up into the right facing small notch of Lifeline instead traverse out right on Crossing Over. Clip bolts following the contour of the arête that steps right then up to anchor. 16 bolts total on route. 28 meter rap down over arête to Climbers Choice Wall. Please remember there may be climbers below on Climbers Choice Wall so yell and give a chance for a response. Tie a knot at the end of your ropes. 40-45 meters


Start at the same white quartzite belay table as Lifeline. Originally the climb was done by traversing left 10 feet, then up right in the wide crack but the crack is a little wide and trashy so we soon added a face start just 8 feet upslope from the stone belay table. Clip bolt initial grey bolt, move upleft to bolts on face.


16 draws. Use longer slings at bottom to help reduce rope drag.


Put a knot in the end of your rope. The climber, when lowered off the chains, lands about 20 yards uphill.

This climb works best when the first climber belays the second to the top, then both rappel. Jun 3, 2016
Scott Morris
Bountiful, Utah
Scott Morris   Bountiful, Utah
I used several 24 inch runners down low along with a few longer draws. There was some rope drag but nothing too extreme. Fun long climb. Sep 22, 2015
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
A longer climb than I thought. Almost ran out of gear towards the top. Fun and pretty cruiser before and after the traverse. Well protected where it needs to be and has some LCC-style runouts where it's easier. Jun 18, 2014
Taylorsville, Utah
DCrane   Taylorsville, Utah
I had 4 4-foot slings and some 2-footers (not enough!) and there was still a bit of an issue with drag by the end. Only a 5.8 so not a huge deal, but much harder and it would nearly pull you off the wall - especially with only short draws. Bring lots of runners and you'll be fine. Super fun climb.

Note - We had a 60 meter rope so I belayed my second from the top of the pitch as if in a multi-pitch, he cleaned all the draws on the way up and we both rapped down. Worked out fantastically. May 25, 2012
ddriver   SLC
I totally agree with Dave re the anchors location. So much so that when we finished this we traversed right and rapped off different anchors. Did not trust those blocks, and there is much better looking base rock nearby. Maybe thats just the advantage of having a hammer with you, but I didn't have one, so there. Jun 20, 2011
Salt Lake City
cragsavvy   Salt Lake City
Very fun with exposure. Well protected, by far the best climb on the Main Wall. You can get down with a 60 meter, but make sure you rappel straight down over the overhang/arette. One long pitch Sep 25, 2010
This is a fun climb, and one of only two remaining routes we could find on this wall whose bolts haven't been cut.

One thing to note is that you'll need a 70m rope if you want to top rope this climb, and collecting you gear on rappel is non-trivial. Jul 20, 2010
Dave Budge
South Slope of the Hindu Kush
Dave Budge   South Slope of the Hindu Kush
About half of the bolts have been replaced, with good gear in between. Bring a standard rack.

CAUTION: watch for a loose death block just below the anchors. The anchors themselves are located in a suspect chunk of rock. Jan 17, 2010
Dave Borba  
Super fun sustained climbing with nice exposure while "crossing over"! Like the discriptions says, rope drag is an issue epsecially with short draws. Bring slings, and have fun, the amount of sustained climbing ending with a single rope rapel is worth draggin' the rope up for. Aug 27, 2009