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Routes in Main Slab

Crossing Over S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Golden Years S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lifeline T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Dentures S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pete's Paradise S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Louise S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Dentures S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Upper Geezer Gulley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Whipper Snapper S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Mark & Louise Sargent June 2009
Page Views: 1,507 total, 15/month
Shared By: Mark Sgt on Aug 16, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This climb goes up 3 bolts, traverses up and right to small right facing corner/notch. Lifeline comes close to Crossing Over at this point so don’t get sucked right onto the traverse of Crossing Over. Continue up the small right facing corner/notch. Some climbers may want to place a small cam between the two bolts here. After pulling over the small notch, follow the crack right, then up. The crack goes about 30-40 feet without bolts so you will need the pro. Don’t forget about your second, if they fell after unclipping the last bolt before the crack they would swing over 15-20 feet. It’s easy ground but… At the end of the crack you will find 2 more bolts before the anchor. Because of the length and rising nature of this climb a single 60 rope will not reach back to the starting belay point but a single 60 rap will reach upslope to the Climbers Choice Wall. Please remember there may be climbers below on Climbers Choice Wall so yell and give a chance for a response. Tie a knot at the end of your ropes. 10 bolts total. 40-45 meters

Location

You can start this climb from either the ground next to the Traverse Tree a.k.a. Tuning Fork Tree (see upper branches). This is located about 25 yards upslope from the start of Golden Years. There is a perfect white quartzite table to flake the rope on. Or you can start this climb by stopping at the Lifeline starting belay stance on the Main Slab just left of the Tuning Fork Tree when you rappel down from Peter’s Paradise or traverse over right when going up Golden Years. I would not start up Lifeline from the top anchor on Golden Years as that involves an initial 20 foot traverse over to the first bolt, it’s better to go over the belay stance for Lifeline.

Protection

Bring small selection of small/medium stoppers/tech friends on this climb.

Photos

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ya what an idiot. Is it that offensive to have one area with some easy sport climbs. That wall would be great for beginners to learn how to lead. even if it is possible to lead it with gear do it, and good for you you climbed a 5.5 or a 5.6 on gear yeah, but leave the bolts so we can open our sport to the beginners who probably love to climb more then that bolt choppind dick does, get a life!! Sep 19, 2010
Ryan Lauck
Farmington, UT
 
Ryan Lauck   Farmington, UT
 
The first couple bolts shared with crossing over are still there, all others are gone and also one of the two anchor bolts at the top is gone. This route (assuming i was on route) can be safely protected on gear, but some of the pro can be tricky and the rock is still loose in places.

I have mixed feelings about a route like this being chopped - its not a climb I find worth doing again and it may have been a good beginner sport lead when it was bolted. Chopping an anchor that cant be seen from the ground seems especially poor form. The real question in my mind is what the thief did with the stolen hangers - I couldn't imagine reusing them, that bad karma is gonna get you. Jul 5, 2010