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Smilin' Jack

5.11c, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 26 votes
FA: Gary Beil, 1993
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Summersville (G… > Summersville La… > Narcissus Cave

Description

Start by climbing the right leaning finger crack to eventually gain a stance above the 2nd bolt (crux). Continue up to the overhang and traverse a bit right. Follow a flake system straight up and then diagonal up and left toward the shuts. The upper portion is often wet and may be a bit dirty from run off, but this climb is well worth doing. Nice moves, especially in the crack section at the bottom.

Location

Locate the right leaning finger crack on the face just to the left of the Narcissus Cave.

Protection

7 bolts, shuts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ian Saucy
Boston, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun route! The low crux is sequence intensive but with some fun finger locks and jams. Definitely stick the first clip. You can fall onto the first clip without grounding if you have a competent belayer.

Warning though, the anchors are super rusted and loose. They did not inspire confidence and I hated lowering off of them. They super need to be replaced. The hangers and bolts on the rest of the route are generally okay. Nov 28, 2021
Ryan Booth
Fayetteville, WV
 
[Hide Comment] This route is really overlooked. It's a bit dirty, but deserves more traffic. Sick crack/layback boulder problem to flowy face climbing Apr 8, 2022