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Routes in Fortress Wall

Dual Reality T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fall of Pleiades T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kachina T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Luxor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nimbasus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Renaissance T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Verachocha T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Matthew Seymour and Skyeler Congdon
Page Views: 536 total, 5/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Aug 16, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Maybe it's FA bias, but Matt and I thought Fall of Pleiades to be an exceptional route, with both pitches offering great rock, interesting movement, and devious cruxes with just enough "thank god" holds to make it go.

P1: Start in the chimney left of Verachocha, stem up a couple moves until you can place a high #4, and move out left to a splitter tips crack. This crack is NOT flared: a rarity in this canyon! Utilize stems and heel hooks to get into the thin crack (10+) which opens up to good fingers and gets you to a alcove rest. Continue past good hands until the crack seams out. Move right 5 feet and climb hard-to-protect slab past a thin seam to a ledge and belay.

P2: Follow Verachocha up a right-trending crack for 20 feet, again place a high #4, and traverse- right this time- into a tips splitter that widens as you go. This one is very flared. Make strenuous finger, rings, and thin hand jams (5.11) before the crack thins out again forcing desperate throws out left to miraculous sidepulls. Mantle up, and enjoy mellow finger jams before joining Verachocha's 5.9ish handcracks to the rim.

Location

In between Veracocha and Dual Reality. Look for the obvious chimney-to-tips-splitter on the first pitch. The line then crosses over Veracocha to the right on the second pitch.

Protection

Doubles from tips to #3, with a #4.

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