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Routes in Goldrush Area

Americana Arete T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Card Draw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silver Stage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Combat S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: RW
Page Views: 768 total, 8/month
Shared By: chosspector on Aug 16, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb the obvious arete and slabs to the right of Goldrush and left of the Silver Stage. This route is quite loose in a few spots and is not recommended for those seeking something less than a truly "alpine" experience.

P1. This starts on the ledge right of the mine shaft near the base of Goldrush. Climb the left-facing corner past a few bolts, traverse right through overlap to a nice handcrack, 5.9.

P2. This is a long pitch with mostly good rock, but some really loose blocks at the start that should not be trusted. Yarding on bolts can make for a safer-ish experience, bolts and gear, 5.11a.

P3. Climb the upper headwall, bolts and gear, 5.11, not recommended.

Gear: a single rack to 2", quickdraws, and 2 ropes.

Protection

Bolts and gear to 2". It has fixed anchors.

Location

Start on a ledge immediately right of the ice climb Goldrush and about 150 feet left Silver Stage and Five Card Draw.

Photos

Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
  5.10c
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
  5.10c
The rap anchors on this route each need chain and quicklinks to make them proper, as the current set-up is AFU.

Also, there is a teetering block waiting near the last bolt. I didn't know where my dog was, so I snuck past it without sending it. Jul 13, 2010
Lee Frazer
Durango, Colorado
Lee Frazer   Durango, Colorado
For those of you who are wondering...this climb is on the rock to the LEFT of the slab where Five Cart Draw and Silver Stage sit. Sep 29, 2009