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Routes in Black Face

Black Crack S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blacklisted S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Persona Non Grata S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2000
Page Views: 696 total, 7/month
Shared By: Cory Harelson on Aug 15, 2009
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Grotto and Lookout closed Details

Description

This climb has positive edges the whole way (thanks somewhat to the massive amount of glue employed to keep the holds in place . . .). It starts steep, then eases for a bit before steepening up again at the end.

Location

Starts a few feet to the right of Black Crack

Protection

10 bolts to two open shuts

Photos

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One of my favorite climbs at Echo. Great pulling on edges and pockets up mostly steep rock. The rock for me is some of the best quality at the cliff ...thanks perhaps to generous amounts of epoxy glue...almost a gratuitous thing at Echo.
Nov 28, 2013
Romain Wacziarg  
  5.9
I found the anchors to be in good condition when I climbed the route today. Perhaps they have been replaced? Jun 10, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
Blacklisted (5.9)
This climb is excellent and well worth the hike. An initial steep, tricky bulge leads to steep slabby climbing and a final headwall section. Unfortunately, the anchors for Blacklisted are badly rusted and deteriorating and often have debris stuck in them due to their position in a water drainage course.
A slight rightward traverse to the Blackballed (5.10b) anchor provides an excellent steep pocket pulling link-up with Blackballed and provides anchors in much better condition. This final headwall is steep and pumpy on excellent black rock. Looking down the line of fall reveals the extent of the epoxying necessary to maintain the positive holds on this often wet, drippy climb. If you're at the Far Side this climb is worth checking out. Oct 12, 2009