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Routes in Main Wall

Cat from Outer Space S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack'n the Code T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Freedom Fighter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frogs in Space T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gotta Keep Dancin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jeopardy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
LGK T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Laus Deo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinhead T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raindown S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ray Auld Memorial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Springboard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine on a Dark Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touching the sky S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undercover T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Kloke, FFA Bailey, Howard
Page Views: 404 total, 4/month
Shared By: jaredvg on Aug 15, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened Details

Description

Climb directly up from an alcove on an exposed ledge taking care not to dislodge the hand and footholds on your belayer. The route is steep right from the get go. Sharp crimping up a V groove allows access to a sloping platform at the base of the overhanging finger crack. Work up the finger crack by any means possible, the footwork is difficult. There is a bolted anchor at the top with hangers, but no chains. Taking webbing or quicklinks would be advisable.

Location

Follow the trail to the east at the base of the steep wall to the right of Zig Zag. Wrapping around the Snag Buttress and scrambling under a large tree will bring you to a small alcove. The route goes directly up from here to a visible overhanging finger crack.

Protection

Difficult gear placements to 1"
2 bolt anchor with hangers at the top, but no chains.

Photos

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Ryan Hoover  
 
Smooth sailing to crux, which felt hard to me, though short. Harder than any moves on Frogs in Space. The two bail nuts below the crux seem to agree... I didn't have a problem with gear, pop in a couple small pieces below the overhang and power through. Anyhow, still a fun route! Mar 27, 2013