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Madness
5.9 R,
Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), Grade III,
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: D. Serl, G. Creighton 1987
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Fraser Valley
> Anderson River…
> Yak Peak
Access Issue: Large Rockfall
Details
There was a large rockfall from Yak Peak on July 28, 2022. The extent of damage to routes or which routes have been affected is not yet known. Until more information is known it's best to stay away from the area. This will be updated when additional details are available.
Description
A bold route with lots of runout climbing and loose rock, but a nice line.
Start right of the start of Reality Check and solo endless low-angle slabs to 5.7 for about 300m (following a ramp that breaks through the band of overhangs) up and right to gain the ledge at the base of Porcelain Chicken.
Now climb the dihedral right of Porcelain Chicken for 6 long pitches to the same ledge that P.C. finishes on. Instead of doing the same (or sane) thing, however, continue upwards through crumbly, granular rock and loose rock (crux, sandbag 5.9) for several unpleasant pitches until the climbing eases off to slab scrambling and the summit.
Location
Rightmost dihedral on the SE face.
Protection
Full rack of nuts, heavy on the small to RP size, and a moderate amount of cams. Long slings may help with rope drag.
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Kelowna, BC