Yak Check
5.9,
Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 12 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3 from 56
votes
FA: First 7 pitches: J. Bennetto, R. Cox 85. To the top: R. Cox G. Wolkoff 92.
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Fraser Valley
> Anderson River…
> Yak Peak
Access Issue: Large Rockfall
Details
There was a large rockfall from Yak Peak on July 28, 2022. The extent of damage to routes or which routes have been affected is not yet known. Until more information is known it's best to stay away from the area. This will be updated when additional details are available.
Description
This is the link-up of the lower half of Yak Crack with the upper half of Reality Check. It is consistently 5.8 to 5.9 on the cruxes for most of the pitches, and combines the good rock on the lower pitches of Yak Crack with the quality upper climbing of Reality Check while missing out the hard and runout crux of the latter route.
There are various ways to start - don't try directly up the lower corner as it blanks out and is hard. One way that works is to solo up corners (5.2) to the ledge and block below Reality Check start then traverse left to the bolt belay at p. 1 of Yak Crack.
P1 - make 5.7ish moves left from the belay up a flake to gain the hand crack on the front face of the flake (small pro). Climb 5.6 crack to a belay out right at bolts near a pinnacle on the arete. ~55m
p2 - climb crack to a bolted stance just above trees, belay standing on an impressive krummholz. 5.6 60m rope stretcher. can split this pitch in two at a slung tree half way up.
p3 - climb crack to top of pinnacle (Lunch Ledge), belay 10 feet higher at bolts on higher ledge. 35m 5.6
p4 - climb sometimes crumbly rock left at first, then up and right (some pro behind flakes and a fixed piton) to a bolted stance. 35 m 5.7. can link 3& 4 with 60m rope and long slings on gear to avoid rope zigzags.
p5 - an obvious vertical wall can be climbed via a corner on the left side (5.8) or a series of face holds to a vague hairline crack on the right (5.8+) past a bolt that wasn't placed on the first ascent and first showed up in the mid-2000s, then follow cracks and ramps up and right to a bolted belay 50m
p6 - move right from belay and climb a left facing 5.8 corner for about 10m then step right around arete at big hold (can also step right of corner at bottom but you miss out on the cool layback). climb up flakes, pass tree, up to two overlaps at a roofy feature. place gear then move thru overlaps into crumbly, easy groove, climb to bolt belay c. 55m 5.8+ (junction of Yak Crack and Reality Check)
p7 - You are now leaving Yak Crack for Reality Check. Climb up 5m from the belay on rock resembling oatmeal, then move left on a solid horizontal dyke until you encounter many flakes. undercling left, then up at end of first flake, climb more flakes to highest undercling at roof. move left (5.9) awkward under roof, to corner "Cave". there is a possible belay here under roof on a fixed nut and piton. HOWEVER, despite topos, it is best to go right here on to the arete of the cave and climb up about 10m (5.9 face) to a big ledge with bolted belay on the right. this avoids the spelunking tunnel thru the flake done on the FA which is awkward with a pack on, and avoids belaying on sketchy fixed pin and nut tied off with a single webbing chunk. ~50m 5.9
p8 - traverse ledge (top of through-flake) to a bolt belay on left. 30m 3rd class.
p9 - climb flake and ramp up and left, then back right a bit for a pitch ~40m 5.8, two bolts once the good crack ennds
p10 - supposedly one of the two 10a pitches. face climb up 3m to a bolt, move up and right 3m to another bolt, then back left and up 5m to a corner (bolt on left arete) climb right of the corner up the face on dishes and flakes then move up and right on a nebulous line past more bolts and gear under flakes to a bolted belay on a small right facing corner/ramp (cant see belay until 5m below it). ~45m, easy 5.9 face, total of 5 bolts on the pitch plus gear. Can easily get into 5.10a terrain with lackluster route finding as the most direct line is not the easiest one.
p11- climb up flake above belay and either climb directly where it goes right, or move left and up good cracks on the face, to a ledge. above this is a low angle slab with 3 bolts. originally graded 9/10a by the FA party, subsequent ascents have cleaned holds on the slab of lichen making it more secure - now feels like an 5.8/9. belay at bolted stance on ledge above. ~40m 5.8/9 this is where you would rap from if you planned on rappelling. It's **much faster and more enjoyable to walk off than it is to rappel though.**
p12 - 4th class up low angle slab (no pro) for full pitch to trees above. 45m 4th class. Can escape into trees lower down to the left if you want to. easiest way off is 10 m traverse hard left to the lowest trees, but there is more bushwacking this way.
From here, hike and scramble up towards the top, pass the subsummit on the right side on a good ledge (exposed).
When you reach the col between the subsummit of Yak and the main summit, there is a double bolt belay with rap rings which can be used to rappel 50 m down to the meadow, on a waist-high cliffband facing east, on the south side of the col. this rappel is very helpful when there is still snow in the col, and irrelevant once the snow has melted.
Location
You can rap the route but it is better and faster to walk off down the backside.
In early season there may be a problematic steep snowpatch blocking the walkoff at the base of the subsummit-true summit col. You can rap past this with two ropes or descend it in approach shoes using a nut tool as an ice axe.
Protection
Full rack to 3" with doubles to triple cams in the finger size (blue, yellow, orange TCU). Generally bolted belays.
[Hide Photo] Looking up Yak-Check from base.
[Hide Photo] This is the topo from when we climbed Yak Check in October. Route beta was from McLane's Canadian Rock: Select Climbs from the West. Done in 13 pitches at 5.10a.
[Hide Photo] sore feet at the top of the 10a slab pitch near the top of yak check with crispin prahl in summer of 2010
[Hide Photo] crispin prahl at the base of yak check in the summer of 2010 photo bissell hazen
[Hide Photo] Due to 2022 rockfall, pitch 6 lost its ledge and is a hanging belay. Bolts intact.
[Hide Photo] Corner on Pitch 11.
[Hide Photo] Corner on Pitch 11.
[Hide Photo] TOPO: Red line shows the line of Yak Check as seen from the base of the face.
Chilliwack, BC
Old bolt belay stations referenced in the pitch by pitch description were replaced in 2007-2008 with new stainless hardware. Nov 10, 2010
We couldn't figure out the new variation to p7, so we belayed from the fixed piton and nut as the rope drag was too much to handle going up the "cave's" arete. I'm not sure if double length slings used for the undercling would help reduce drag and make it manageable to climb above the cave in a single pitch. We did climb above it as the next very short pitch.
There's still plenty of snow on the backside. It is steep, but mostly soft, no crampons are needed.
All anchors are bolted. Lower half of the climb anchors have been recently rebolted. Aug 2, 2011
Squamish
The route itself is fairly easy, and the route finding is a bit complicated but, pay attention to the topo and you'll be fine.
Regarding the climbing, it is fairly crumbly so, be careful what you step on and what you pull on. Make sure you are comfortable on slabby terrain. The best pitches are early in a nice long crack (p2 and 3 I think). It's worth doing to get to the top but, I can't recommend the route for it's climbing.
The descent kind of sucks. Pretty steep and loose. When you're tired from the full day, be careful on it. Apr 25, 2012
The "cave" traversing pitch needs an extra hand size or two to protect well for the second
Tricams work quite well as quite a few of the placements are pods that are somewhat uneven and some of the placements with cams are a bit suspect behind flakes
I would be fine personally with a single rack from blue metolius to big blue camalot, a set of tricams from black to blue, and a set of the smaller nuts
One thing thats worth mentioning is that many of these pitches are "no fall" zones, with the features below you, rope stretch and the spacing of the gear ... If you cant runnout 5.8/9 ish and basically solo 5.6/7 ish then this climb might not be the best
The rock quality is no worse than the popular climbs in the canadian rockies
;) Aug 1, 2015
Some bolts were loose, others had hangers clearly damaged by rockfall. Consider taking a few 3/4" hangers and a wrench. Sep 17, 2015
Chilliwack, BC
Vancouver, BC
There's some very scary rock on pitches 4-7. In particular, the big flake on pitch 7 (where you climb up to the "cave") has a big crack running down it and seems ready to blow. I fear what would happen if someone were to fall on a piece of pro that was placed behind it.
With two parties of 3 in front of us, we were 8.5 hours on the wall. One hour for the approach, two hours to recuperate on the summit and descend. Arrive early.
Mosquitos and yellow jackets at belay stances were bad.
Either to avoid rope drag or because the rock was terrible, I ended up seriously running it out a lot. If I were to do this again I would only bring a single rack of cams from 0.2-3". We brought 5 or six long runners, and could have used one or two more. Radios were also useful given the length of the pitches and noise from the highway or other parties. Jul 27, 2020
Whitehorse, Yukon
Following the pitch by pitch on here generally worked well, but there was some confusion for some parts so I'll maybe try to clarify some things.
P7 (the tunnel pitch): We got confused due to the presence of neon pink cord slung around a solid looking block and thought this was the fixed gear and to go up and to the right of that. From the cord you go straight up to undercling the flake, then you want to traverse left until you get to a notch in the flake where the arch starts, this is where the old webbing on the fixed nut+piton is. This is where you want to go straight up, stemming on the arete and face climbing up.
P8: Is definitely not 3rd class. Because of this description I assumed there would be a belay immediately on the left of the traverse, however you have to climb up the corner which makes up the next pitch for about 5m, the moves there would probably be around 5.6.
P11: The description here confused us a little. But basically you follow the right facing corner/flake up for maybe 15-20m then you can pull up onto the face into easy cracks. The way we were reading it made us think there were cracks immediately up and left of the belay.
Imo P6 and P7 were the most serious. P6 is generally well protected, but sustained throughout, climbing. Except for the last portion where you have to pull up into the surprisingly difficult 'easy' groove off of a small fingerlock where you then have quite a bit of slabby-ish climbing on crumbly rock with zero gear to get to the belay. But the laybacking and underclinging on the corner/flake is fucking rad. P7: Also felt fairly sustained and very serious (who the hell knows if any of that gear would hold) but the underclinging traverse on slabby feet feels totally badass. Aug 8, 2020
Kincardine, ON
For gear, I would bring doubles from 0.3 to 3 and singles in 0.1-0.2 & #4. I placed plenty of tricams but no nuts. My partner placed no tri cams and one nut.
A good but long day. Be comfortable in the 10a/b range for single pitch if you want to climb this route. Oct 5, 2021
Prince George, BC
Some notes:
There are so many anchors I was never really sure what was the proper pitch length or not. While all bolts and belay stations have had updated bolts with rings added, the old bolts are still in the wall, and can sometimes make it confusing (such as pitch 10 Where there was about 8 different bolts in the span of a meter or two). The climbing was wonderful, but definitely crumbly in certain sections, so it is best to be very mindful and cautious. A double rack is key to have, as some pitches you'll use all your bigger pieces, and others you'll use all your smaller pieces.
I found it to be very run out in the later portion of pitch 6 as I approached the anchor for pitch 7. Delicate slab after some more physical undercling moves with little places for gear. I think I might of had about 5ish meters or possibly more from the bomber undercling to a new crack formed from the rock fall.
The belay station at pitch 7 is now a hanging belay, but the bolts and rock feel solid still. The opening half of this pitch is by far the most dangerous portion of the route due to the rockfall. It opens fairly crumbly and with lots of hollow flakes, but not very difficult climbing. You climb up and traverse over where you reach an obvious corner and find yourself stuck deciding on what to do. You can either A) Dyno to the ledge out of reach and hope you grab something solid, B) Perform a very delicate step out and around the newly formed corner onto the face with little features and hope your feet don't slip, or C) Downclimb loose and crumbly rock to a better looking feature to step out onto and then slab climb up. All of these options have the same protection, which for me was a .75 that felt really good and bomber, but it was deep inside this newly formed flake. This flake sounded a little hollow when I gave it the good ol' knuckle tap but was about 5-6 inches thick. Once past the committing section it is quite a bit run out and so ensure your follower is also confident on this section as if they slipped they would be swinging out quite a bit and may need a haul up.
Remainder of the climb is awesome! Last pitch can likely be very daunting for less experienced climbers as a slip on the unprotected scramble would most likely result in death, though I am unsure what the traverse into the trees is like as we committed up the 4th class.
Be cautious if you choose to climb this route! My friend fell in the sketchy place in 2023 and had to be airlifted out as 3 of their cams pulled when they fell. It is a committing and unsecure move with not the most confidence inspiring pro. Be safe! Sep 19, 2024