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Routes in Magic Pond

Flake Route, The V3-4 6A+
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 173 total, 2/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Aug 14, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Although not actually named the Flake Route, it serves as a good description. Jutting out from the scooped face of the boulder is a large block that happens to be a great starting hold. Pull on and follow the crimpy flake up and left until you get your hands on the large slopey shelf. Unfortunately, this is where the holds run out and the problem ends. Drop off, or better yet, link into the start of the crack to the left and highball up the boulder.

Location

On the massive boulder across the stream and uphill from the Gas Boulders.

Protection

Pad

Photos

From talking to Keith, I think what you are talking about is the amazing Diving Board Project (about v12). See my comment on the Magic Pond page for details. Aug 31, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Agreed! It won't be easy by any stretch, but some mutant will be able to link it all together. v10 dyno? :) Nov 5, 2013
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
 
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
 
Last I knew, it was rapped, cleaned and left alone due to a blank section between the shelf and the lip. Maybe there is something up there. The full line would be awesome. Nov 5, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
What Bryce is failing to mention is that this has the potential to go all the way to the lip and top out via some difficult and committing moves to an exciting mantel high off the deck.

If this line is linked, it would be four stars all the way and possibly one of the best and proudest lines in Pawtuckaway.

It is definitely doable. Nov 4, 2013