PRINT: Rock Climb Springboard, Northwest Region

Springboard

5.8+, Trad, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 106 votes
FA: unknown
Washington > Northwest Region > San Juan, Fidal… > Mt Erie > (g) Main Wall > (b) Main Wall West

Description

This is a fun crack climb with an interesting start, good position, and exposure. It is high on the main wall. From the ledge at the top of Zig Zag, a tree extends horizontally off the ledge to the east. This is the springboard. Walk out the tree as far as possible to the point where it contacts a steep face. A couple face climbing moves to the right off of the tree gain a good crack with a fixed pin. The face climbing moves can be protected with a small nut. Once in the crack, follow it all the way to the top with some interesting and balancy moves. There is a bolted anchor at the top.

Location

The route starts by walking the horizontal tree on the top ledge of Zig Zag.

Protection

Gear to 2", fixed pin (possibly gone), chain anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Upper Main Wall West & left side of The Headwall topo. Please note that half of the routes are only partially in frame and that it isn't pin point accurate.

Rapping from the Springboard ledge at sunset

After gaining the crack just before sunset

The official start of Springboard

Beginning the route lower down further climber, right

John gettin some jams above the traverse into the crack.

Looking up from the anchor at the direct start variation to Springboard.

Anacortes scene. At the start

Springboard at sunset

Maureen working her way up Springboard on a beautiful Spring day

Working through the start crux

The Springboard. Walk out to the wall and traverse right on the wall to the crack system. The route follows this crack system to the anchors.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brandontru
Nevada

5.8+

One of my favorites. There is no better place to learn to climb. Mar 4, 2010

oretro

I was bit by a bat 2/3 of the way up this route today. Sep 28, 2015

Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA

Oh no, Oretro, sorry to hear that -

I hope you could catch the bat. Otherwise, I imagine that there is concern about rabies?

Bats are fairly common in cracks. About 30 years back, on the FA of Earwax at Index, Terry was startled by bats coming out from around his jams. Luckily though he wasn't bit. Sep 28, 2015

Caleb Mallory
Maple Valley, WA

Fun way to the top after Zig Zag, did almost pull out a block about the size of a peanut butter jar when I was about parallel to the first bolt of the route to the climbers left of Springboard, don't think the block is needed but did certainly add a little spice early on. Jul 23, 2017

Mack Johnson
Silverdale, WA

5.9 PG13

Yesterday we found a slings attached to a nut holding up Springboard's tree where you "walk the plank". Comforting. Apr 25, 2018

Porter McMichael
Issaquah, WA

The nut and sling have since disappeared. Clipping the first bolt of the bolted line straight up from the belay reduces the nastiness of a fall before reaching the crack. Oct 10, 2018

z attack
Wa

if anybody is concerned about "nastiness" of a fall before you clip the piton, i counted and placed no less than 5 pieces of protection (active and passive) before pulling onto the route. Sure it's heady but that's what the + is for. it's perfectly safe, just look around and place gear and get weird. such a great route!
On another note, does anybody know the name of the route that ends directly below the crack with the new chains and bolts? May 9, 2019

Curtis Tripp
Seattle, WA

There is a direct start to this route (apparently new?). It starts from a small footledge with a 2-bolt anchor with chains, down and to the right of the "springboard" and directly below the start of the crack. 2 bolts protect the section directly above the anchor before you reach the bottom of the crack (see photo above). I haven't done the original start but 5.8+ sounds fair enough for this variation as well (getting to the crack was the crux). Jun 20, 2019

Gosh Glance
Seattle, WA

Curtis- I believe the bolted line below and to the right of Springboard is actually P2 of "Redemption", though it could definitely be used as an alternate bolted start to Springboard, avoiding the namesake move(s). Apr 20, 2020

Luke Pendergrass

Traverse at start is protected phenomenally well with a black totem Jun 28, 2020

Maureen Stewart
Bellingham

@Luke Pendergrass

Not anymore cause someone bolted it Aug 13, 2021

Sage Bedell
Seattle, WA

Someone has removed the bolt hanger as of 8/13/2021. Aug 17, 2021

Jude Apple

Hi all. Yes, the bolt hanger has been removed and bolt will also be removed. We are working to restore this climb to its original status as a purely trad line. The first move of Springboard can be protected with a small stopper (or two). If you are uncomfortable with the move but want to climb Springboard, check out the bolted direct route several feet to climber's right of the start, just above the chains for Constant Velocity. Aug 23, 2021

Eternal Gumby

I did this today and thought the traverse from the tree to the crack was suss. I placed a small blue offset nut in a small crack near the beginning of the traverse. Had to kind of mantle up to get established in the crack. If I biffed that I think I would've swung down and smashed ledges. Possibly breaking my legs? Didn't see a pin, maybe if that was there it would've felt safer. Fun climb despite being gripped. Would rate it R. Maybe I missed the pin, the sun had set already. Aug 28, 2023

Tyler Leedom
Bellingham, WA

By no means is this a 5.8+ start off the deck from the springboard. Crux is quite difficult and the fall could be real bad. Dumb that there isn’t a bolt or two there. Once you obtain the crack it’s super chill climbing to the chains. May 28, 2025

Jared VG
Whatcom County, WA

5.8+

A purple TCU also perfectly protects the moves off the tree. May 28, 2025

Will Guy
Shoreline, WA

Climbed this as p3 in link up with sunshine on a dark day -> constant velocity -> springboard. Really fun combo. Section to get from CV to springboard is probably 5.9ish. Pro in springboard crack is great for first half, little tougher to find in second half imo. Overall fun route though Apr 11, 2026