Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,801 total · 25/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on Aug 13, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Begin on a juggy flake and make strenuous moves trending up and left. Reach for the slopey lip and press it out to a "Thank God" chicken head over the top. Classic.

Anyone have a name for it?

Protection

Several crashpads would be nice as the top is a bit committing.

Photos

skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  V3
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  V3
This problem is called Surprise Ending, and is a V3. Sit start on the ramp and head straight up crimps to the mantel. Or, alternatively, start sitting to the right of the ramp on right facing flakes (the start of Low Crack) and move up and left into the mantel, which I think is higher quality. Nov 5, 2009
Panfilo  
I'm pretty sure the surprise at the ending is that there is no chicken head. Unless I'm completely blind (which is also very possible). Solid mantle though, all things considered. Sep 5, 2013
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  V3
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  V3
Big holds, cool moves. If you know the beta, then the top is pretty easy. Classic problem for the grade! Aug 15, 2016
Brian Koralewski
Springville, UT
  V4
Brian Koralewski   Springville, UT
  V4
At the double crimp-jug, go up and left to match hands on the slopey edge. Stand up hard on the crimp-jug and reach the distant chickenhead hold. Jul 25, 2017