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Stained Boulder Problem

V1, Boulder, 8 ft (2 m),  Avg: 1.6 from 29 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Trapps Bouldering > Steel Bridge Boulders

Description

Across the Undercliff Road from the Behemoth boulder is the Stained boulder, so called because of its red and green hues.

Start on thin sideways holds on the face. Continue up the face to the top out without using the arete for hands.

From Colin Best: A sit start for this problem makes the three-move maneuver v3. With the right toe on the usual start, a right hand on the sloped arete four inches above, and a left hand mantled on the the usual left foot start, back flag the left foot real hard and lock. Reach up for the lowest razor crimp on the moon shaped crack and bring the flagged left foot into the the left foot start hold with a drop knee. Bump left hand into the usual start crimp and work your way to the top. The back flag, lock, and crimp work only adds up to a few moves, but they are techy and fun.

Location

Across the road from the Behemoth boulder.

Protection

Pad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

On the starting crimps.
[Hide Photo] On the starting crimps.
Start on the chalky holds at the center of the face of the Stained boulder.
[Hide Photo] Start on the chalky holds at the center of the face of the Stained boulder.