PRINT: Rock Climb Burning, American Fork Canyon

Burning

5.13b, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 3.7 from 40 votes
FA: Todd Skinner
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > Hell Area > Hell Cave

Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.

Description

Awesome steep climbing that traverses the cave and ends at the lip of Hell cave. The crux is right after you clip the 5th bolt.

Location

It starts on the far left side of the cave. The unique thing about Burning is that it traverses to the right to end on the very last bolt at the top right side of the cave. It does not pull the roof out of the cave.

Protection

Burning is ten bolts long and ends on a single draw which would be consider the 11th bolt. The draws are usually fixed on the route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mark Maguire burning it up in peace & beer & power & soot & permadraw cave :-)<br>
Photo by Thomas Holmes

Mark Maguire burning it up in peace & beer & power & soot & permadraw cave :-) Photo by Thomas Holmes

Working across the traverse of Burning, in Hell Cave, just before the crux

Siawn on Burning

photo by Jeff Skalla (2016?)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sean Patrick
Mountains, CO

FA Todd Skinner, or FA Boone Speed? Anyone have the history on this. I know it says Todd in the AF guide, but asking around the area, people say Boone did it first. Maybe Boone is associated with it because he did FAs of half of everything else, and is climbing it in Masters of Stone? Sep 17, 2015

jonathan knight

I hope someone corrects me if I'm wrong, but I remember hearing that Jeff Pedersen opened up the project to the talent that was climbing in AF at the time. I think Todd won the showdown with Boone and Lynn Hill climbing it the same day; Jeff not long after. Sep 17, 2015

Sean Patrick
Mountains, CO

Awesome response! Thanks! Sep 21, 2015

Blairj
Salt Lake City, UT

If you've been to Hell cave recently, you've probably seen the bold chalk X on one of the holds in the opening sequence of Burning. I put that there after I felt the hold move under my fingers and saw a crack behind it. The crack will open up a little if you pull on the hold with a little force.

I'd like to find a way to reinforce the hold, but I don't have any experience with that sort of thing. Anyone local with AF gluing experience want to help out? I'd gladly pay for materials and help out any way I could.

In the mean time, watch out for that hold... it'll probably break off if you crank on it. Apr 30, 2018

Draw Thief

Blairj's X'd hold is long gone. Oct 4, 2019

Aaron Shamy
SLC

Beta Vid
instagram.com/reel/DAIBgCOp…

Or
youtu.be/mojV3X4vn-k?si=f2a… Sep 20, 2024