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Everlasting Gobstopper
5.11a,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 81
votes
FA: D Allan
Arizona
> Southern Arizona
> Cochise Stronghold
> W Stronghold
> Sweet Rock
Description
First route right of Cracker Jack (mixed crack). Route opens with challenging 10b/c moves, then jug haul section to half way point up to a roomy ledge. From the ledge, face climbing brings you to the very fun finishing roof move. Not the most sustained route on the wall but very fun and well-protected.
Location
Fifth route from left or first one right of obvious 30' crack system.
[Hide Photo] Hanging out after the third clip. Not sure if more holds broke off or what, but it's definitely thinner than I remember between the 2nd and 3rd bolts -- fun puzzle. :)
[Hide Photo] Good idea of what you'll be looking up at as you're about to start the climb. This is me getting lowered down after finally finishing the route -- the top half is a doozy!
[Hide Photo] "....You can suck'em and suck'em and suck'em but they never get any smaller."
[Hide Comment] isn't it forbidden to put up a stronghold route rated 11a or harder unless you've been climbing there for more than 10 years? :)
Nov 10, 2009
[Hide Comment] Well played Christian! =) Brigette - you crack me up! I thought i told you I pulled the block. I didn't like the way it still moved after a week of gluing/drying so i yanked it. It was certain death waiting to happen. May not have happened for years but i sleep better with it gone. I pulled another suspect [jug] hold at the bottom as well. I can't wait to see you going for round 2 on it this weekend! =)
Dec 10, 2009
[Hide Comment] I pulled it the same day i pulled the big block so it was gone when you did it. It was right next to another fairly substantial hold so it won't be missed much. Maybe I should just keep pulling off holds till i get it up to a 12... what do y'all think? ;)
Dec 10, 2009
[Hide Comment] Hah! I got through the crux - no jugging, and no traversing (guess Disneyland will have to wait). Time to downgrade it. 5.10a?
Dec 14, 2009
[Hide Comment] I'd vote 10+ heavily leaning towards 10D judging by the difficulty partners had with it as well as what it felt like to me. But whatever, it's a fun climb with good movement.
Jan 3, 2010
[Hide Comment] Aesthetically probably the best route on sweet rock. I'd vote 10d or 11a, I got the beta from the route setter (thanks Daryl!) Fun moves and a cool dyno for a short guy like me at the end. Very well bolted so it's a great lead.
Mar 15, 2010
[Hide Comment] Thanks Joe and Zeke! Belated congrats on your send Brigette! I'm always amazed at the deviation in ratings i get on this route. Every time we're out there we meet new people and I've heard folks rate this line from as low as 5.9 all the way up to low 11. It's very height - dependent with a crimpy 2nd half so depending on your build and strengths, the variance makes sense.
Aug 20, 2010
[Hide Comment] I thought this was the best route at Sweet Rock.
Fun, techy start into a rest, then a sustained and pumpy finish. Full value for a sport climb, definitely felt challenging for 5.10. 10d sounds about right to me.
Dec 4, 2010
[Hide Comment] Climbed this again last weekend and a block came off through the lower stuff below the ledge. I didn't really see that it affected the overall grade that much but that specific section is maybe a letter grade stiffer.
Feb 21, 2013
[Hide Comment] 12/2/19 someone used the 3 bolt from the top 4 target practice, it tore the hanger so that only 1/4 of the thickness is still there and pushed the sharp metal edges into the carabiners area, it could tear into said biner if one fell there and it just happens to be the crux hanger.
Dec 5, 2019
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Sierra Vista, AZ
Monroe, WA
Tucson/DMR
Monroe, WA
Boodge: Did *you* knock that block off. ;) Nov 18, 2009
Monroe, WA
I'd actually like to try this route again, if anyone's up for it. Nov 19, 2009
Tucson, AZ
Sierra Vista, AZ
Monroe, WA
Wait, did you pull the jug at the bottom before or after I climbed it last time? Dec 10, 2009
Tucson/DMR
Sierra Vista, AZ
Monroe, WA
Tucson, AZ
Sacramento, CA
Sierra Vista, AZ
Boulder, CO
Fun, techy start into a rest, then a sustained and pumpy finish. Full value for a sport climb, definitely felt challenging for 5.10. 10d sounds about right to me. Dec 4, 2010
Petaluma California
I agree, best route at the cliff. Dec 21, 2012
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