Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Primitive Buttress

Barbarian TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cam Shaft T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Death Scream T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Evolution TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Failing Fingers T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Flash T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Huff and Puff TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Missing Link TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old World Monkey TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Primitive Man T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robins nest T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
lean years, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 82 total, 1/month
Shared By: Pete Hunt on Aug 12, 2009
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Straight up the center of the face on progressively harder moves until reaching the huge roof. Enter the roof using decent holds and surmount it with a mantle-y thing. Feet are mostly minimal and poor. Physical and hard, I don't think I've seen this one climbed smoothly. Well named.

Location

Right up the center of the face, then up and left through the roof.

Protection

Standard TR set up. There is a vertical crack ~10' back from the edge which may be useful.

Leading would be quite a feat but placements may exist.

Photos

Pete Hunt  
 
Yeah, it's brutal! I have yet to see it be done gracefully. Mar 19, 2012
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
  5.11a
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
  5.11a
Pete, I do that too when posting new (to the site) routes.

I think the heel hook is key to getting your hands in the right spot, but releasing the hook and establishing yourself above the roof....ugh. Mar 4, 2012
Pete Hunt  
 
I agree it is tough the rating. When I'm the first to contribute a route I generally just put the established (guidebook) rating. (Edit: changed to 5.11a since I agree) Mar 4, 2012
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
  5.11a
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
  5.11a
Not a very good route IMO. Surmounting the roof is a grovelly hump and mantle with no footholds.

This was our last route of the day so maybe I was just tired but this felt more like an 5.11 to me. Sep 13, 2011