Trad, Alpine, 330 ft, 4 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 4
FA: Josh Wharton, Josh Thompson, August 2009
> Alpine Rock
> Mt Evans
> Tan Buttresses
Pitch 1: start off the ledge system. Start by liebacking up a short flake wedged in a crack. Reach up and place gear in another flake above. Then climb up and right onto a good ledge at the base of the corner proper. Climb the crack in the corner. The left hand wall is lined with an interesting calacite. Power up this corner using stemming and handjams. When the corner arches left, step out right on a large foot hold. Climb the 8 foot finger crack through perfect granite. You will then gain a rest in an alcove. Pass a roof either on the left or via a hand traverse above the roof. Climb the golden corner above passing 2 protection bolts. Belay at 2 bolts on a good ledge, 5.11d, 100 feet.
Pitch 2: the Arete crack. Step left and begin climbing the obvious crack just right of the edge of the buttress. A couple of steep finger locks will get you to the beautiful hand crack. Climb the Hand crack as it gets wider, passing a couple of solid flakes in the crack. When you reach the roof surmount it on the left. Belay at 2 good bolts on a very nice ledge, 5.9+, 75 feet.
Pitch 3: step right and climb the inside, left-facing corner. Stemming and unique body postions will get you up the pitch. Belay on a HUGE ledge from 2 bolts in the next section of cliff, 5.9, 80 feet.
Pitch 4: lieback up the obvious line left of the anchor. There are several key rests. Nearing the top of the crack, step left onto a stance. Climb the face above the stance, passing a bolt, up and right. Pull onto a ledge. One more short, bouldery move puts you on the final big ledge. Belay from 2 bolts, 5.10, 75 feet.
A 10 foot scramble leads to the summit.
The route is located on the first major buttress you come to. The route climbs the left side of the Buttress. To Reach the start do some exposed scrambling up grassy ledges, with a final bouldery move to gain the large starting ledge.
RPs: 1 set.
1X green Alien.
2X Yellow Alien.
2X Red Alien.
2X #0.75 Camalot.
1 each #1 to #3 Camalots.
Optional #4 Camalot.
Josh Wharton leading the crux first pitch. Photo by Dan Gambino.
Topping out teamwork stylee!
Josh's left hand is on the small stance that you step left on to gain a short section of face climbing. Pitch 4.
Following pitch 4.
Thompson getting into the crux face on pitch 4.
Wharton climbing the last crux near the top of pitch 1.
Josh Wharton climbing the first pitch. Dan Gambino photo.
This picture shows the beautiful 2nd "Arete crack" pitch.It starts off the obvious ledge.