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Routes in Half Dome Boulder

Half Dome Corner V3 6A
Regular Route V9 7C
Snake Dike V1+ 5
Type: Boulder
FA: Ian Cotter-Brown
Page Views: 1,621 total, 16/month
Shared By: Remo on Aug 12, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Amazing boulder! You can probably guess where the name stems from. Start low on ok edges and reach sharp flake. Set your feet and make a big bump move to good edge. Top-out. Could be an even lower start.

Location

Half Dome sits up above the Headstone about 50ft. Look for a small patch of trees in the middle of the talus, Half Dome sits tucked away in here.

Protection

Pads and spotters.
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Nice work Peter! Aug 20, 2013
I climbed this from a sit with my hands where Vinny's are ( mountainproject.com/v/10680…) yesterday. For me, this added a tough hand move and two foot moves into Ian's start, essentially making the problem 50% longer (and 50% better?). I call this start "The Irregular Route."

Starting lower and to the left may be possible, though the substantially increased dab factor decreaed quality in my mind. I'd like to hear what others think the ideal start position would be.

I also fixed the landing substantially so this can be done with 1 or, for the slightly more timid, 2 pads.

Finally, for those more interested in comparing this with that and talking grades than the physical, emotional, and intellectual challenge presented by boulder problems, to me:

Regular Route: 7/8
Irregular Route: 8/9

It was hot so we will need to put these lines to the test in better weather.
Aug 19, 2013
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Chris, if you look at the picture looking down on Vince, you start with either of those holds and your right uses a good hold out right(not in pic). You keep that right hand on until the hard bump move to the good incut. I'm heading back up tomorrow if you want to join:) Mar 28, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Nice Ian! Which holds you start on? Mar 28, 2013
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
SWEET! Mar 28, 2013
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
Nice work! Mar 27, 2013
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Project no more! Ian sent today! Mar 26, 2013
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Wow this thing doesn't get any easier with the warmer weather, who would have thought. Hard! Jun 17, 2010
To me the "squeeze project" is the more fun project to climb on in this general area. I have a very difficult time keeping my legs and feet from hitting both the ground and the adjacent boulder when trying this one which has dampened my enthusiasm for it. Not to mention the holds all feel upside down, but that's a different issue.. Just my two cents. Sep 21, 2009
GRIM! Sep 16, 2009
Very cool problem!! Should be pretty hard too! I'm guessing 8 or 9 but really, I have no idea. it all comes down to one really hard move. The landing wasn't too bad with two organic full pads and two half pads. The right line has a worse landing but bigger holds. Still slopers though!! Aug 31, 2009
This is most definitely not the problem "Asiago" as I mentioned on Steve's blog. Looks hard! Aug 31, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Yeah I don't either Sweaty. (Superb!!!)

Remo yeah I ran into Steve today, he sounded more positive about the project than I felt when I sussed it... 'Course he's strong. Looks like you were out at Dodge today, nice shots! Aug 30, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Nice Chris you made it up there. Pretty cool huh?
Talking with Steve, it sounds like this boulder will go, hard no doubt! I have yet to give it a serious effort. Soon, so stoked! Aug 30, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
was there chalk on the holds? we know how you struggle without beta or chalk to lead the way :-) Aug 30, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
I tried them both, both were hard, left seemed harder, both had kinda bad fall potential even though they're short. Multiple pads would be best. Aug 29, 2009
Very cool!! So psyched to try this stuff!!! did you try either of them? Aug 27, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
I checked this guy out again and there looks to be two lines. One would be climbing out right along the slopey rail system, V6-8? The other would be the direct line starting in the middle of the pit and climbing straight out, V8-10+? Aug 27, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
I think I need to change my underwear.

Looks sexy! Aug 12, 2009
Looks amazing!!!!! Can't wait to try it!! Aug 12, 2009