Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Unknown on South Face

5.8, Trad, 2 pitches,  Avg: 1 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > S Platte > Goose Creek/Mol… > Helen's Dome

Description

Not my route, but to clarify the Hubbel guide, (his picture is much better than the topo). Find the ledge 5 minute walk up around right from the Helen's Dome area. Start 5' left of tree, traversing up right (PG) past the 2 bolts and then zig back and up to a so-so ledge for a gear anchor. Our 2nd pitch was short and followed the right-diagonaling crack up to the anchors on another climb at the overlap. (Sticks & Stones; lots of new bolts.) 165' ropes should reach the overlap given the age of the climb, but we weren't sure. Also, we could have traversed right to the heavily bolted line and up to the same anchors, but we were keeping in style with the original. We then sacked the trad ethos and followed the bolts for another 162' pitch. We rap'd with 2 ropes.

Location

Helen's Dome South Face. On a ledge with a tree, Brave Cowboy (water-streak) is maybe 12 feet left of the tree. Unknown starts about 5 feet left of the tree.

Protection

2 bolts and a light rack to maybe 3".
We had a 165' and broke it into 2 pitches. Hubbel's topo says 1 to a belay in the 3" horizontal at the overlap.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down our P2.  (Probably could've had a few nuts if I'd worked it.)
[Hide Photo] Looking down our P2. (Probably could've had a few nuts if I'd worked it.)
Lin went straight up "harder than 5.8." I continued traversing and zigged back at 5.7.
[Hide Photo] Lin went straight up "harder than 5.8." I continued traversing and zigged back at 5.7.