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Routes in Helen's Dome

A Nice Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Roototop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown on South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 82 total, 1/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Aug 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Not my route, but to clarify the Hubbel guide, (his picture is much better than the topo). Find the ledge 5 minute walk up around right from the Helen's Dome area. Start 5' left of tree, traversing up right (PG) past the 2 bolts and then zig back and up to a so-so ledge for a gear anchor. Our 2nd pitch was short and followed the right-diagonaling crack up to the anchors on another climb at the overlap. (Sticks & Stones; lots of new bolts.) 165' ropes should reach the overlap given the age of the climb, but we weren't sure. Also, we could have traversed right to the heavily bolted line and up to the same anchors, but we were keeping in style with the original. We then sacked the trad ethos and followed the bolts for another 162' pitch. We rap'd with 2 ropes.

Location

Helen's Dome South Face. On a ledge with a tree, Brave Cowboy (water-streak) is maybe 12 feet left of the tree. Unknown starts about 5 feet left of the tree.

Protection

2 bolts and a light rack to maybe 3".
We had a 165' and broke it into 2 pitches. Hubbel's topo says 1 to a belay in the 3" horizontal at the overlap.

Photos

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