Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Massive Vertigo Area

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Peter De Salvo
Page Views: 2,229 total, 22/month
Shared By: SteveSchultz on Aug 10, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start on the crimp rail towards the bottom of the pit and climb up and left to the sloper on the arete. Go up from here.

Ed: Originally given V8, new/easier beta has been found (see below-- sweaty's video is him doing the original V8).

Location

This boulder sits on the left side of the talus field about 75 yards up from the lake.

Protection

Pads and spotters. Not a perfect landing.
greg bahr  
 
Thanks Chris and Steve for the info. Sep 25, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  V6+
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  V6+
Most of us who've done it recently have used a knee pad. Once easier beta is found the original beta is generally abandoned. Sad but true! Sep 24, 2011
SteveSchultz  
 
Hey Greg, the kneebar beta is the easiest and most logical way to climb this problem now. Just off the top of my head I can count 8 different people that have done the problem with this beta and it is now the accepted way.

This is the exact same line as it's always been, but is just easier if you can stick the kneebar in and do what used to be the crux move static. Sep 24, 2011
greg bahr  
 
did some one on MP actually downgrade a problem cause one person used a "kneepad" i dont get the downgrade to a 6? the main obvious line climbed is def. an 8? Sep 24, 2011
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
Katie crushes this thing in our new video Midwest Unknown Jul 22, 2011
knee pads??? What is this Rifle? So who is down for going up this weekend and searching for some boulders? Dec 3, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V8
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V8
You guys had a killer day. And you sir have been on a wisconsin rampage this week. I'm glad it wasn't to cold for you guys to climb and you were all able to get some shit dealt with. most excellent. Dec 3, 2009
Dobbe  
Knee pad=3 sends in four try's! Maybe more like 6 that way. Dec 3, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6+
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6+
The knee bar is the money beta. We had a send train using the knee pad. It did feel like cheating a bit, but it is still a great problem. Dec 2, 2009
we were all kinda close but that move is the stopper for sure. They got jenga pretty fast too. Oct 20, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V8
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V8
huh interesting. Did Andy and Kevin try it that way too? how did it work for them? Oct 20, 2009
heel on the start hold and go for the pitch below the crimper you use then right to the sloppy pinch Oct 20, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V8
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V8
What was your beta man? Oct 20, 2009
Nice send. Your beta is way different and harder ...HA Oct 20, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V8
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V8
That's why I made sure to give you credit :-) To be fair though I thought the video thru the crux was very well done. However, once i get to the jugs my ass was litterally in your face. kind of hard to do anything with the camera at that point. Oct 14, 2009
SteveSchultz  
 
I'm a pretty kickass videographer Sweaty. You're lucky I used my talents on you. Oct 14, 2009
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
sweet send Jon! You crushed it. Oct 14, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V8
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V8
Here's the video of the send. compliments of professional videographer Steve :-)
youtube.com/watch?v=awN0vFu… Oct 13, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6+
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6+
Agreed with Steve. This problem is awesome, can't wait to try it again. Sweaty shows up and just crushed it. So strong Sweaty! Oct 13, 2009
SteveSchultz  
 
Very cool problem! It comes down to one hard move and I can't wait to come back again and do it! Fun gymnastic moves on an overhanging arete!! Oct 12, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6+
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6+
Sweet! Good work finding it again Steve. Aug 10, 2009