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Routes in West Side

Anti-Venom T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Baby Seal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Barracuda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beach Blanket Bingo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beer Snake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Douglas, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Juju T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
BlackzillaH S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Bocephus T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bro Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bronzing S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Brotherhood, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Caligula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crack and Shatter S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Darkstar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Die-Agonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dopeman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ebonics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
French Kissing The Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Grey Matter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hanging Judge, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Has Bro S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
He Bro S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Chocolate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Kingsnake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Boys T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lemongello T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Om Sweet Om S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orangello S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Picture Me Rollin' S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Real Big Kung Fu S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Sandstoner, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Saturday the 14th T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sh'ash Nizhitl (The Bear that is Brown) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
She Bro S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slap My Fro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slim Shady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stick It T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Valley Girl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vanilla Voodoo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winsloner, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Vince Bates & Eric Deschamps
Page Views: 1,132 total, 11/month
Shared By: Eric D on Aug 10, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Lady boys is full of surprises. From the anchor of Valley Girls, climb up and right to a hand crack in the obvious dihedral to the ledge. Take the right crack of the two cracks to another small ledge. If you have a #3 and #4 left, keep going. Otherwise stop your pitch here and anchor with 2 .75s and a nut; you'll then do a short second pitch.

Location

Starts at the top of the route Valley Girls. To descend, walk to and rap King Snake.
It's questionable whether or not you can rap King Snake with one 60m. We swung over to the ledge left of King Snake where there is a middway anchor.

Protection

A couple of micro-cams, a double set .5 to #2, single #3 and #4, and medium to large nuts. A second #3 and #4 will allow you to do this in one pitch instead of two.

Photos

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Eric D
Gnarnia
 
Eric D   Gnarnia
 
I agree with toast. The climbing is decent but this was put up ground up and so didn't get the cleaning it should have. Don't climb this while someone is at the base. Nov 16, 2015
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.11- PG13
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
  5.11- PG13
I think this climb should come with a PG13 warning. Not a Sedona PG13, but for the Winslow wall area is might be for now. It is an ok climb, but there is still a lot of loose and questionable rock. Climb cautiously because you will likely be shedding off some rock possibly onto your belayer and also down into the popular shady grove area where lots of people hang out. Aug 26, 2014